@PingSpike Hi Rich, they were taken in Doncaster, I live on one of the boats.
I shot on RAW + JPEG, I’m still learning the settings
We hired one for a week for my wife birthday a few years back - possibly the most relaxing week I’ve ever had in my life
Good man - was thinking that some tinkering could be done with the raws to really bring out that sky (clouds in particular)
I haven’t done any editing on them at all, I kind of figured if I can get a half decent shot from my drone then editing will be easier, rather than not having a clue and taking bad shots then trying to edit into something decent.
Also quick advise - would the pic with the train in it have been better with a slower shutter speed to give the train some movement blur? Or have I got that completely wrong lol
@PingSpike it is a relaxing way of life, I just wish I could get out and travel more but i’ve got to work
Yup, stands to reason mate
Yeah, same here mate, my flying hours are dramatically reduced in summer due to work commitments (summer is our busiest time of year ) so I feel your pain
HDR the shit out of them,you know you want to !!!
NICE,see what i mean??
Sorry, I think the train looks static and it looks hard to tell which way it is moving, so with a slower shutter speed it’ll give some motion blur? Like I say I am completely new to photography and could have the complete wrong idea lol.
Forgot about HDR, i’ll Have that on next time.
No, you don’t have the wrong idea but, particularly with a train moving toward/away from you, the length of shutter speed need to get that blur will have two consequences.
- Firstly, in those moderately bright conditions, and since the Mavic Air has a fixed aperture, you’ll get to the ISO limit to compensate - so you’d need ND filters to help get into the longer shutter speeds.
- Secondly, as good as these drones are at coping with wind and appearing very stationary, you will start to see blurring everywhere. How much depends, obviously, on how well the drone and gimbal can manage that and the wind/turbulence at the time.
You may find that being more side on would help when using filters, since the apparent speed across the frame is faster.
Haven’t been much impressed by the HDR setting on the Mavic Pro, but has got good results from bracketed exposures and Aurora HDR to process them. Recently discovered you can get pretty much the same result from a single RAW file.
Bracketed exposures / Aurora HDR:
RAW file / Luminar:
I’m not a fan of HDR, overall … I find they tend to look fake/unrealistic.
To get a result I’m happy with I have to use bracketed exposures - and then tweak for hours … so I tend not to bother.
Pseudo HDR, from one image :
- is certainly one shit load quicker!
- doesn’t need thinking about bracketed exposures when you’re actually flying
- for me, never produces a result I’m as happy with as I would be after hours of tweaking from bracketed exposures.
Generally I find I get results that I’m happiest with by using a good image editor, like Lightroom CC on mobile, that has good shadow/highlight/blacks/whites control. In the end, HDR is doing the same thing, but in a different way, and I’m never so keen on the pastel colours that HDR introduces. Shadow/Highlight adjustment to a good RAW pic doesn’t tinker with the colours … and if they need some tinkering, the same app should have the controls to do so more harmoniously.
I do not have this patience.
Just seen this pic on Instagram.
Blurred train … but across the frame, as I suggested above, and much closer … that will increase the across-the-frame speed.
Oh right I get you, so you wouldn’t do it on the pic I’d taken to make the train look like it’s going into the distance.
God I have a lot to learn lol
I have heard you can over HDR (the shit) out of your photos but I’m not convinced