Another glorious 20 seconds of FPV

I made an impromptu visit up to the parents’ yesterday and of course I threw all the drones in the boot just in case.

I’ve been struggling to find somewhere to practice with the FPV, but there’s a place we’ve been going to on walks since I was a kid. It’s pretty much in the middle of nowhere, never another soul around, plenty of space for me not to get into too much trouble, but still a few features around to make things interesting if I want.

Things did not go as planned.

Firstly, yes, that was a very lame crash. I think I was thrown by the video break up; that’s something you don’t get in simulators. I confess, I’m a little disappointed that with clear line of sight I’m getting video issues within 40m. This is supposed to be a “long range” FPV quad.

Anyway, I went to retrieve it and discovered a screw missing from one of the arms.

I checked in my kit and I don’t have a replacement long enough. Not a problem. The other screw is holding very firmly and the arm’s only going to move in a crash.

At this point I look up and discover four horses have wandered over to check out what’s going on. I’ve never seen another living thing (insects and flora excepted) around here in the last 40+ years and now there’s bloody horses!

I give up! :rofl:

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Nice vid Jez :+1:t2: Don’t let a small crash put you off Jez, I’m the king of 20 seconds flight, walk to collect quad rinse and repeat :grin:
With regard to your video feed, do you know what power output your VTX is set to? Could just need bumping up a bit

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Check your goggles are on the right frequency too. Don’t use autoscan as it can lock onto the wrong one when you are close.

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If its a GEPRC built in vtx it should go upto at least 600mW output :+1:t2: Also as the other guys here told me when I first started the signal is always worse when you are facing back towards yourself if the antenna is on the back of the quad as the carbon frame blocks it

Oh, I’m not going to be put off by crashes. Nosey animals, maybe, but not crashes. I am going to see if I can find out about boosting the VTX.

Will do.

I can see that before I’ve even completed an hour’s flying there’s going to be all manner of “upgrades” in my shopping basket.

This was supposed to be a basic starter to see if I was going to stick with it. Not set me on that path of owning several quads before I’m even competent. :laughing:

It’s a great big money pit Jez :laughing: Do you know what Flight stack came built in? I’ll try to find the instructions for changing the output power for you :+1:t2: On my GEPRC Elegant it was fairly easy. A few button presses. You can also check/change your video band/channel at the same time

It was this one:

As long as they’ve not changed the spec in the meantime. I suppose just because it says 600mW doesn’t mean that’s what it’s currently set to.

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Do you know if its the F4 20A version or the F7 35A version?

I do not. Looks like I may already be on 600mW though.

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Would still be worth checking physically on the VTX. My GEPRC would say it was on a certain power, band and channel in Betaflight but would be completely different when you checked it on the VTX :confused:

GEPRC-STABLE-V2-F4-MANUAL-EN-V1_1-.pdf (1.2 MB)

I think this is the manual you need

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Sometimes you have to unlock power above 25mW. I did on my runcam vtx.

Without the unlock, which was mentioned in the manual, it was limited to 25mW even if betaflight said otherwise.

The diagnosis LEDs seem to tally with BetaFlight. I’m getting 7 blue, 5 green and 5 red.

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Thats cool so Race band 7 5880 600mW. Just need to check against the channel on your goggles. Set the goggles manually rather than auto scan as per @notveryprettyboy to make sure its the exact channel and not one that’s close :+1:t2:

Done that. Maybe it’s due to my “budget”, beginner gear. Surely there’s no problem that can’t be fixed by throwing more money and equipment at it? :rofl:

Seriously, though, while I’m not yet ready to drop £250+ on super-duper goggles, I wouldn’t mind throwing a few quid at an antenna upgrade if I thought it would help. I’m currently running Fat Shark Recon V3s with the supplied “stick” antenna.

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There’s your problem right there. Use omni’s. Axii lumineer or truerc sigularity.

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So maybe this then? I’m guessing I don’t want anything polarized unless…wait…

The VTX antenna seems to be one of these, which is listed here as LHCP, as it is in the Banggood specs, to be fair. So would it be even better to get an LHCP receiving antenna, too?

Yeah get an lhcp so its the same. Your signal will a mile better (literally :wink:)

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Check the top of the antenna to be sure which polarisation you have. Mine was listed as having lhcp but it was in fact a rhcp . I only noticed this after buying a LHCP goggles antenna upgrade

Well, bloody hell, I wish I’d known about / noticed this a couple of days ago. :laughing: