General 3D printing questions and answers, tips and tricks

lie it flat on the build plate :+1:t2:

Tried but it wouldn’t stick

Built a raft and it seems to be working :grinning:

The raft was no good, broken the part trying to remove it

But a brim has done the trick :+1:

wow thats tiny.

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top tip though, if you’re using a glass bed, let it cool down completely before trying to remove the part from the build plate and it should come off a lot easier :ok_hand:t2:

On it’s edge, my setup is 33min V 7min laid flat… :thinking:

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Check out the mini figures or high quality profile at 3dprintscape.com/cura-profiles
Works well on tiny things.
The standard profile is also great and faster than the cura equivalent

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Are they expensive to run these 3D printers :thinking:

Sod that don’t answer :grimacing:

Did you not notice the street lights dimming outside?

anything that uses heat will be expensive to run :rofl:

Looks to be pulling about 200watts whilst printing

@njoro did a measurement I think

If I had tea in my mouth I’d have redecorated my office wall… :rofl:

Yes, alas the days of just chucking a large print on without a care is gone…

Cost, Watt x Time, it’s worth investing in one of these.
https://amzn.eu/d/9Ngzkqp

Heads up Manchester!

Wayne is about to start printing again!

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That’s actually not too bad, better than I thought it’d be :thinking:

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Pulling 350 Watts max, but varies depending on temperature settings filament being printed such as ABS, a meter is the best method of determining the true cost of the print.

I always turn off the Bed at predetermined point during printing which does save quite a bit…

My slicer has a very good filament cost interface which does a good job of estimating to +/- 1p

or use this for a reasonable estimate (set to 200W)
edit anything green, don’t mess with the red
cost to print.xlsx (11.2 KB)

Excel is a good place to start, I’ve got it all setup in the slicer software to automatically calculate whatever I drop on the Bed… :wink: