I’ve never had to use bed adhesion aids like pritt stick to be honest. IPA the glass bed before every print I have a BLTouch so I know the bed will be pretty much perfectly level and I’ve not had issues with adhesion.
I don’t think you can edit / break down stl files for editing. Its analogous to compiled binary files. Then again, there may be software out there that backward engineer it. As Deano said, tinkercad can edit it effectively, albeit sledgehammer style. There’s also meshmixer i think. But that’s more for the artists i think.
putting some 1mm high text on an existing STL is as easy as this in OpenSCAD
import(“MavicMiniCase_Final_Lid.stl”);
translate([-16.5,-97,46])
linear_extrude(1)
text(“GDAC”,size=10,font = “Liberation Mono:style=Bold”);
the result:
alternatively just drop multiple stl files in your slicer and move them to the right places (I use Cura)
Thanks, Paul I will have a look at that 
Jyers is a Marlin fork for the Ender 3 v2 with the 512k flash memory
The STM32 needs to be labelled with RTE6
Here are some screenshots
Thanks Wayne, looks useful 
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Cold enough in the house that I actually had to heat up the hot end in my hand to get the printer to start this morning
Also jumped to MPC temperature control for the hot end in the new marlin bugfix instead of PID, and it absolutely smashes it in terms of relative stability. No more overshoot:
2 weeks into my new hobby and it’s coming into some use, her indoors questioned its viability 
So tonight I designed a new top clip for the missing one from the clothes Airer 
Done in Tinkercad and currently in a 3-hour print
I will show her its viability 
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Has anyone else experienced this?
(The bed level visualiser plugin in Octoprint)
It would appear that my print bed is bowed with a variance of 0.14mm (Ender 3 V2 Neo & magnetic bed).
I have
- cleaned everything that can be cleaned (rollers, track, plate, bed).
- reduced the spring tension
- checked the rollers
- adjusted the cams to the minimum that prevents slop on the bed
am at wits end 
or is this just a fact of life with a magnetic bed?
I Volunteer on the canals, this pays for the Coffee
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It’s not a machined part 0.14mm over the distance of the bed is nothing, it’s 5 thousands of an inch in old money
The bed mesh leveling will sort it anyway
That’s a nice print Wayne 
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Thanks Steve, it’s taken I few weeks to get there. I was given the printer from a mate who got it from a relative but neither of them knew how to use it properly.
I realised I had a lot to learn as well and started with a complete strip down and rebuild as it hadn’t been put together to my standards 
plus it’s a great way to learn and understand how it works
I have been playing with different firmware and tweaking the setting, last night I did some calibrations and it’s pretty bang on!
That jug came out as good as I would like, I used an add on in cura called arc welder
I dont know if its any use, but i measure the filament as nearly 1.7 instead of 1.75. I put this into cura. Just in case your ocd
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You’ve certainly put more effort in to this than I did Wayne 
@DeanoG60 gave me some of his time in the early stages and I eventually realised that like a price dick I had not plugged the LH Zaxis stepper motor in (Ender 3 S1 DD)
It has a CR-Touch and I just chuck the files in and print 
A month or so back, for reason I have not fathomed yet, nothing would stick. I reduced the Z-offset by -1.03 and all was good again. I think I should do the bed-levelling again now it has all settled down.
I need to look at my TPU settings, prints good but a bit stringy, need to spend time cleaning up afterwards.
Cheers
Steve
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this will pretty much always be the case with TPU.
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Well this spreadsheet has gone in the bin now.
The Octoprint "Cost Estimation plugin is just the bees knees.
Plugins!
Look up Auto Bim
and Mesh visualiser
will make sure your bed is 100% Level to aid the CR Touch.
Basically Auto bim will repeatedly probe the bed in a corner and give you a figure and then you turn the screw till you get it as close to 0 as possible then keep moving around the corners making fine adjustments (works best with solid bed mounts instead of the springs) once complete it should be as close to 100% level and then your CR touch will only be needed to fix warps in your build plate.
you can then use Mesh visualiser to see if your build plate is warped and where