Pano-Mania #1 - (aka The Great Pano Thread)

I’m Android, too.
I’m out-and-about, atm … but I’ll add some info later.
The Go4 app does did everything you need … but quality hasn’t impressed me.
Using the images the Go4 app creates, and free software for laptop, you can get good results.
A bit of Photoshop, or equivalent, can improve the result.
Yet to find a full Android solution, and certainly nothing that gets closer to the consistent quality of Hangar, and its one-click solution.
I may buckle and get iOS for a totally portable/trekking solution.
More later.

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Thanks @OzoneVibe I have found two panos within the Go4 app, it seems to take sometime for them to appear for some reason. They work and spin on my phone, that’s a good start :slight_smile: I will wait for any other advice you can share, no rush mate just when you have time.

Another few tonight.

Edge of Whitelee wind farm

Over what looks like ruins of a very old house or farm?

Lochcraig reservoir with views of Glasgow in the distance

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Northern Lights? :stuck_out_tongue:

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That’s exactly what it is :wink:

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Lymington Quay, Hampshire.

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what did you create this in ??

OK, Paul … there are two routes once you’ve taken your pano.
a) use the file that Go4 creates (see note below) with/without tweaking in Photoshop (or similar) … on phone or computer,
b) take the 34 images that the pano exercise creates and stitch together on computer. (For a much higher resolution pano.)

Looking at (a)
See my post @ Here's a discovery! ... in relation to Mavic stitched 360° Panoramas to find the best quality image to work from.
… then jump to the uploading note below.

Looking at (b)
This can depend a bit on your photo editing skills … but, initially, locate the 34 images that will be on your SD-Card. Depending on your settings, these just be jpegs, or may also be .dng RAW files.
I always create both, and sometimes more can be extracted from RAWs, but even the one of Lymington (above) was just created from the jpegs. If you know how to play with RAW, I’ll leave that to you to tinker and create low compression jpegs from them (or png).
Next, download and install Microsoft ICE (Image Composite Editor) and load the 34 pics into it. (There are other apps - but to get a feel, it’s a straight-forward app to use … and works well/quickly for most panos with good detail everywhere.)
ICE is quite intuitive - but you need to select “Spherical” in after the images have been stitched in Step 2 of the app, then select “Auto complete” in Step 3 (which prevents a slightly wiggly line at the top of the stitching).
Go to Step 4 and export the image. I usually export as TIFF … since we need to take the result to Photoshop (or similar).
To create undistorted pano-spheres, the image needs a 2:1 width:height ration, and the image created by ICE (and other apps) from the 34 images, won’t be this ration since there are no straight up images. (Go4 cheats and blurs the top to create the sky area.)
In Photoshop, you can tweak the image if you want, then you need to add space (Image/Resize/Canvas) to the top to create the needed ratio … and fill the space with a “nice sky colour”.
You’ll see this added area/colour at the top of my Lymington pano, above.
You then need to resize the image to 4000 x 2000, and save as a jpeg/png.

c) So, now you have your 2:1 image from (a) or (b) … you need to follow the instruction in Interactive 360 Panoramas - How To Post on GADC to create what I have above.

I’m looking at another option to c) … more on that when I see if it’s possible.

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Se notes to Paul above. :wink:

:open_mouth: Thanks @OzoneVibe that’s fantastic mate. Working with raw and photoshop isn’t a problem and I have downloaded Ice. This will be a project for this week, thanks so much for the detailed instructions :+1:

Probably just use the 34 jpegs in ICE and tweak in PS, first … then when you see where it’s going you can probably use the RAW to better advantage, because ICE does its own “exposure” manipulation, anyway, to harmonise all the shots.
I’m still playing with exposures for the pano … auto v manual v a little under/over exposure, and (when manual) which part of the scene to base it on to start with. I’m far from a conclusion on this one.

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By selecting “Fisheye” as opposed to “Spherical” … you can also create …

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OK - A new way to show pano-spheres!!!

I’ll do some notes later!

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Brilliant! Knew you’d get it mate.

I like Kuula! Good to have a profile with all your work people can browse and comment on.

I just need to get quicker at the processing. Going to try stitching the AEB panosphere I took yesterday.

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The nice thing about Kuula for here is …
a) larger files = higher definition, and
b) they have the utility to generate ALL the code to paste here … without having to copy/paste/edit the other code and get the Imgur url pasted in.

Thanks should go to @RaRaRasputin for sorting the main problem.

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Here’s one I took earlier … in the year.

Let’s give this a try :slight_smile: the stitching was done in the Go4 app

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Looking at that, I reckon there’s a good chance of a better stitch in ICE. Good luck! :wink:

This was my first so I didn’t set it to save the unstitched images. Next time though :slight_smile:

The 34 unstitched images should be on the SD-card, tho.