Took a little head-scratching to get my TX working last night, until I realised I had my wires crossed. Can anyone see why I might have done that? 
Today’s challenge is to find out why I have OSD in the goggles but no video feed. Am I right in thinking Smart Audio <–> TX3?
Osd in goggles without video is a problem with camera to flight controller wiring.
Lens cap
Yeah, I’ve fallen foul of that one myself… lol
Yeah, it wasn’t that, unfortunately.
It can even be a broken camera… or power to the camera… etc…
I’ve actually made myself a little camera test rig that powers the camera and has video out onto a composite video plug for my EV800D goggles… no VTX involved.
or just wire the camera straight to the VTX and then you’re taking the FC out of the circuit… VTX will produce a blank screen even when no camera is attached.
Heh yeah love these cross over diagrams, but it states it’s “EASY”. Heh.
What I actually do is mark up what I’m going to do and save into drive, e.g.:
I bet you prefer the old way of doing it?
Honestly… it’s easier just to learn Tx->Rx Rx->Tx and ignore which UARTS they say to use… You can put your Receiver on anything you want if you’re using Crossfire Protocol… it’s only daft IBUS and SBUS that force you to use specific UARTS.
(Actually I always seem to use the “old way” when hand drawing circuit diagrams… Despite it already being the “old way” when I first learned how to do it.)
Edit: I just noticed that sample diagram has both old and new ways of doing it… ffs.
Oh that tiny ape that blew up… A lot of PCBs have the pins marked, but the screen print (whatever the technical term was) obviously had slipped a little, and had to make sure was counting pins. Pins weer marked wrong on the board itself!
At least miss wiring RX/TX nearly always just means it doesn’t work, not blow anything up. Be more careful with the little red and black ones 
I do know that, but their diagram showing the CRSF connections inexplicably changes the connection colour from orange to green on both of those. So it’s not green-green, orange-orange. I mean, who does that? 
Anyway, I have video now. Loose pin on the camera connector. 
Yeah, I was thinking about that early this morning… I want to re-calibrate my current sensor, but that means running the drone up to around 10 amps usage on the bench. Props on, (upside down mind you) blatting away at stupid speeds… It takes me back to when I did my large motor stuff at uni… motor as large as a car engine on the bench. Shit that scared me and is the reason I prefer electronics over electrical. Not much can go bang really at low voltage/current…
Oh and I always run my electronics on the bench with a current limiting power supply. It makes it somewhat harder to make things go bang…
Though I do remember a guy at my work experience… fixing a CNC lathe main board… powered it up on the anti-static mat he was working on… BANG!
Awesome
Rx is one colour, Tx is the other colour… so of course they swap!
Of course. 
Just GPS and buzzer left. Oh, and LEDs.
Remember GPS also swaps.
LEDs heh… WS2812??
Wow… screen print slipped… I guess Diatone have an advantage there then… no screen print at all! (I can hear JB swearing about that in my head)
Pretty much.
The FC also very helpfully has an LED socket on each corner. It really is EASY.
Although given my ViFly buzzer has 3 wires I guess it’ll take GND and BUZ from BUZ- and BUZ+ and I’ll feed it 5V from elsewhere.
BUZ+ is 5V… BUZ- is the signal.
So I think:
GND ↔ GND
BUZ+ ↔ 5V
BUZ- ↔ BUZ
(see the vifly manuals)
As for LEDs… the (current) Mamba FCs have a special custom mode that ignores Betaflight. You have to change the way the pads are shorted, as you can see on your diagram at the top, to switch to Betaflight enabled mode…
My latest MAMBA FC also has LEDs pads on each corner (I actually kind of wish I’d gone for the easy version rather than the BASIC as I hate soldering onto FC boards. I’ve ruined one in the past)…
But I’ve gone for race-lights instead. The LEDS are powered from the motor connections direct. So you can see that your ESCs are all working!
Yes, I’ve considered getting some of these, to.
The EASY board is great and I love the helpful sticker underneath. But I wish they’d sort the colours out. 5V on the GPS connection seems to be slate grey.
and GND is green… whoops!
