You won’t notice.
Hmm… you could. But most people use 2.4ghz. There is an issue with 900mhz that there is US and rest of the world standards for the 900MHz band and you therefore have to ensure you are consistent with which one you get. 2.4GHz is always the same and just works.
I fly 2.4Ghz Elrs, FrSky and Flysky whoops around the house and have no issues. The video always goes first.
OK, thanks or that. It seems like either way should be fine then.
I can’t find stock of either of them with 2.4Ghz ELRS, only 900 Mhz, 2.4 would be my preference too as the radio modules are easier to find for that as well.
I think I’ll go for the mobeetle then, it means I can stick with TBS for all my long range stuff for now (I swear one day I’ll move to ELRS, but I need the MAVLINK over wifi at the moment with TBS) without having to swap modules between quads.
Mobeetle6 is good. If you want to add a bigger canopy you can. In fact it may come with one. I can’t remember. If not a standard mobula6 canopy will fit.
It does come with the alternate carbon frame as well for flying outside. Which is fun.
The flight controller is just a standard diamond one, the same as in the mobilite whoops.
If you need a spare ducted frame, get a meteor 65 one. They are more resilient than the happy model ones.
No real point moving from crossfire to elrs unless there’s really something that elrs gives you that you need. There’s certainly no point for a tinywhoop.
Don’t overuse turtle on a whoop with a Diamond AIO. Unless it’s on a flat surface/floor. if it’s on a carpet or anywhere else that the props might not turn you can blow the ESC in one easy move by doing so. I have a Moblite sat on a shelf with a blown ESC due to that very reason (not caused by me) and I had to put a new FC in a Meteor65 for the same reason (also not my doing). In fact as a rule, don’t turtle anything on a 5A ESC. Just walk over, pick it up, turn it over. I’m not saying you can’t do it, but it’s pretty much the main reason for 5A AIO FC’s failing and at £55 each (for a Diamond 4in1) do you really want to risk it.
Sorry just to add, I had a look around and it seems no one has the whoops you were looking at in stock, in a FrSky version. The only whoops I saw in FrSky, with a price around £100, were the Moblite7 (YourFPV), the Emax Nanohawk (UnmannedTech) and the Cetus Pro (UnmannedTech). Outside of that, HobbyRC has an Acrobee65, but its £137. Time to buy whoops was two months back. Right now everyone has bought them and its probably going to be a bit until the new stock arrives.
I got a mobeetle6 from YourFPV, presumably the last one. Arrived yesterday, having some issues with getting it to bind, the bind button (both in betaflight and physically) seem to only work randomly, and it will drop the bind sometimes when changing cells. Lots of fun to fly when it stays bound though xD
Yeah, when flying, don’t take it any lower than 3.2v as occasionally they lose the firmware if the Lipo completely dies. I’ve only ever had it happen once, but it does happen sometimes. Don’t know why.
As for binding I only have one D8 quad and I bound it via the bind_rx cli command and it’s never lost the bind. The rest are ELRS and use binding phrase.
You could try re-flashing it with latest stable Betaflight and see if that resolves the binding issue. Just remember to dump and diff it first, so you at least have a fallback.
Ahh that’s probably why, it did drop low while I was testing it (wasn’t paying attention) seems to by playing nicer today. I know some boards also reset if they power flicker on-off enough times in a short space of time.
I love whoops. Even for ripping around outside, they are just so damned manoeuvrable. Still can’t fly mine in acro inside, but trying. 
It’s rapid as well, possibly it just feels it because of the agility and flying in a smaller space. I’ve had a go at acro indoors, but the house isn’t particularly open plan. Going to stick with it though because at least I can practice indoors fairly regularly, then take that experience forward and start flying more acro on the bigger quads once the weather picks up. Also has the massive advantage that batteries aren’t £80 each like they are for the big fella.
Definitely some gremlins in there though, sometimes it reports the battery voltage as something like 26V, and if it’s been sat a while the first boot seems to hang. It’s keeping it’s FrSky binding now at least, and once it’s running it seems to be fine.
I had to make extensive adjustments to the default rates on my Nanohawk before I was able to fly it inside, even in Horizon.
Welcome to FrSky. In the time I’ve had my Cine, it is simply the glitchiest drone i have. How people ever lived with these in the old days is beyond me. I am doing some modding with mine, well, i am putting it on 2.5" frame and making a toothpick of sorts. Will probably solder in the ELRS board i have too, as this D8 crap has gotten old.
Sooo… if I’ve got a Speedybee F4 stack which is rated as 3 - 6s. Can I run a 2s 18650 pack?
I’m building a 3inch quad for my son and i to learn with. My thinking was a 2s 18650 will actually give us some flight time - while we’re just carefully cruising around.
I’m hoping it would just be a case of adjusting battery voltage warnings in Betaflight…?
Betaflight will auto detect it is 2s, maybe just drop the warning a little seeing as it’s a li-ion.
Your only worry is the amp draw. As li-ions are lower than lipos.
Amazing, thanks old chap.
I’m hoping to keep the amp draw down by flying carefully and leaving the power loops for the lipos…
Old chap means something different down this way
Looking at it, you may not get the 9v reg output on it. And the esc may need reconfiguring to take the lower voltage
Hmmm do i definitely need this 9v reg?
And is reconfiguring an esc insanely difficult, or just a Betaflight tweak?
. From 1300kv to 23000kv.