180 degree rule

Hello all ,
Recently I have been trying to understand the , rule of thirds , the 180 degree rule , ND filters How to use & when not to use them , much of it I’ve revised ten fold to try & understand the rules the best I can , for instance the shutter speed 2 x the fps or closest too , hope I’m right so far ! ISO near 100 never over 400 , but I don’t know if that depends on what photography your doing , this was based on the drone photography , if I’ve got it all wrong it’s fine I will start again no problem ,as when I go out tommorrow I am going to try in pro as it’s there for a reason , on the flip side so is auto I understand .
So I have just looked back on any old picture for ref and starting from left to right I’d like to answer to the values on the picture what I think is the right answers to see if I’m right or wrong ,

Ok so L too R
ISO which is sensitivity to light ,
EV exposure value ,
F2.8 I’m guessing fixed aperture , ( did think fps )
1.640s I’m thinking that is shutter speed ,

Sorry this is long winded but my question to you guys now , if the shutter speed should be 2 x the frame rate or closest to if abiding the 180 degree rule & bear in mind the above was shot in auto mode , the 1.640.s is it the closest it could get to in auto mode , I hope this makes sense or am I miles away , look forward to any comments & if I’ve learnt or need to start again , if so no stress I’m fine with that I’d rather try too learn right than learn wrong. Many thanks

To use the 180 degree rule you will need to come out of auto and set the shutter speed and aperture manually. Set the desired shutter speed and then set the aperture to get the right exposure (or as close as you can). If you have a fixed aperture, or cannot set the aperture closed enough to give you a good exposure then you will need to use an ND filter.

I hope that makes sense.

Certainly does I forgot to mention my aperture is fixed , so yes nd filters , I was trying to work out the figures 1.640s is that what it done in auto closest too fps rather , I should have underlined it sorry my bad !

BTW… always try to use ISO 100 or the lowest you can. As you increase ISO so the noise in the picture increases. You might get away with ISO 200 or even 400 on a good sensor but above that, on these small sensors, the noise starts to become noticeable. I never take any photos with the drone or my DSLR above 400 ISO but may be newer models have a better noise ratio than my old 500D :slight_smile:

Yes… 1/640 is the shutter speed as you thought :slight_smile:

As you have a fixed aperture it is just the shutter speed needed to give you a good exposure at that ISO… it isn’t related to fps in any way as far as I know.

Ok thanks for the info I thought in the tutorials I’ve watched fps was part of getting that to work with the correct shutter speed , I didn’t mean iso , maybe I’m a little bit off with my calculations or judgements , kindly correct me if you like .
Many thanks

Edit & yes we’re aperture is fixed nd filters to compensate ? Then I ask myself

Am I missing something , I’m fine with being corrected or going back to the drawing board :smile:

Thats optimum for video , nothing to do with still photos.

1 Like

Ok so I’m off with the photos but that’s for videos , lol so hands up sorry for the confusion ( to all ) my mistake , so as per photos I guess depending on the subject & I’m going to say motion blur as Ian from London said ( I think as follows ) higher the frame rate lower the fps / filters creates the blur ? If I’m wrong that’s cool I’m not looking for an answer I’ll carry on revising as I’m actually trying to work this out myself rather than someone throwing the answer to me , you can if you like tho ! :smile::wink:

image

Lesson 101 at Uni back in the dark ages, forget the rules, go out and take pictures.

You have the advantage of digital and unlimited ‘film’.

I had max 36 exposures, and a couple of hours wait to see the results.

1 Like

Yea B@@@s to all this rah rah rah I’m just going to video take pics & p@@s around & it is what it is and go from there in edit etc , that’s it case closed for now :smile:

The information about the photo can help figure out which ND filter you would use IF you were doing video.

Let’s say you were planning on shooting a video at 25 fps. The 180º rule suggests each of your 25 frames per second should be exposed for 1/50 of a second.

Your MA2, having been told to expose EV -0.3, but otherwise set on Auto, decided to expose that particular photo at ISO 100, aperture of f/2.8 (fixed) for 1/640 of a second. 1/50 (that you want) divided by 1/640 (that you got with no ND filter) is 12.8.

If you’ve got an ND12.8 filter on you and the light conditions don’t change, then you’re set!

ND filters are for:

  • Video where something is moving fast in the frame
  • Photos where you want to get motion blur (waterfalls, bicycle spokes, car light trails), none of which are not practical on a windy day.
1 Like

That’s great thanks for the info,btw it was me that set the EV value to as per picture rather than leaving it 00 as I was darkening the pic as I couldn’t be bothered to put an ND on so that Ev value was me , the rest was what it done in auto.
Really appreciate that info.
Many thanks

So I’d use as close to that as possible I take it ( ND ) thanks

Yup and small adjust then with the Ev.

Perfect Thankyou very much , I’m not gonna get myself to twisted up with it tho , as that’ll take the enjoyment away but yes I’d like to try these things as & when but try to get it right , big thanks

There is no right and wrong, only trying.

The proof is in the picture, now get out there and make some memories

1 Like

Exactly , I don’t want to drag this thread on but

That’s exactly what I was told when I learnt to dj , there is no right or wrong way , just because what you see others do or hear won’t always work for you , if it sounds right then it don’t matter a toss that simple , so your quote is right.
Thankyou very much Chris & all

1 Like

there are only two “rules” I’d suggest for beginners in drone photography, but both can be easily broken whenever you like. Stick to 100 iso unless you REALLY need the extra, and expose for the highlights with digital ALWAYS. Out of the two and I only had one choice? EXPOSE FOR THE HIGHLIGHTS!!!
In the good ole film days it was the other way around, but film was much more forgiving and had/has more dynamic range, although digital is catching up. In digital the darks and shadows are almost always recoverable, but once the highlights are blown they are gone forever, never to be seen again. If possible try and bracket your exposures of anything you think is worthwhile processing or printing. That way you can combine the images if its a keeper.
BUT, at the end of the day just get out and take pictures or make videos. Have fun, the rest will follow suit as and when your brain is ready to cope with the multitude of shitballs people will tell you that you HAVE to do

1 Like

That 100% joe and Thankyou