Thought i would post pics as i go .
This is my first drone build .
I bought from aliexpress .
been soldering the esc in tonight finished then found i had put in wrong way round and a hour later swapped round.
Looking clean @jcbdriver
its with guys like you and the support from fellow members that i will even try this.
You got this! just holla if you get stuck with anything
Woah that’s looking great! Can’t wait to see her in the air
cheers jord it will be a while yet.
few questions for you next time we meet up.
How much room do you have for the capacitor to be in that position?
There is no room I was thinking about this yesterday.to be honest it’s a cheep frame and little thought has been put in the design or maybe the speedy bee stack is a tad large. All things to think about on my next build but did not want spend to much money on a first build.all a learning curve.
I would use some short cables between the pads and capacitor legs - you can then just rest the cap on top of the power cables and cable tie it all together to the frame (aim is to not transfer vibration from the frame/cap to the stack) - something like that
Alternatively, you could use 2 smaller caps (of half the capacitance) and attach them to the standoffs - a bit neater but more work
Something else I could not see clearly on your pics - you ideally want the stack screws to be solidly fixed to the frame - ie tightened into some frame inserts if present - or against a ‘golden nut’. See
Interesting.
I am struggling with that capacitor too in my build. Not much space for it.
I am reluctant to not to solder the capacitor directly onto the ESC and use wires instead, as the cap will loose efectiveness that way?
That’s the theory, but is that effect noticeable when flying?
Not sure how I deleted my post
As long as the cable is at least of the section of the cap leg and is kept short the loss will be negligeable.
Ok I’m moving it to the other side of the stack then.
In your picture, you have your paralleled caps soldered to the battery wires, am I right?
cables to the other side of the stack is as far as I would go tbh - ideally stay closer to the pads.
I did solder the cap wires to the underside of the ESC pads - with the main battery cables on the top side. It should not make much difference tbh.
See Bardwell doing something similar
Ok I can see he’s got the stack with the power input looking to the front side of the frame, which gives more room for the cap to be close to the pads.
I think I am going to turn my stack..
I’ve always been a big fan of these:
https://www.flyingtech.co.uk/product/xt60-pigtail-with-capacitor-set-2-6s-1000uf-2200uf-25-35v/
love it!
Bardwell mentioned those were not very good I believe - let me find the source