Now you’re showing your age ;o)
I will take some pictures with it either later or over the next few days and post some up with my comments to explain what I mean. After I posted that I did kind of workout that 4K is video only, I think what I was trying to ask was how does one take the sharpest and best quality images. I haven’t really looked at camera settings so on my next flight will make a point of changing them and taking some dummy pics. Will post them on here with the setting I used for comments.
Hopefully if I get back in time I can do this later, as I get home the sun sets and I should be able to get the images I am thinking of.
I otherwise use a Samsung Galaxy 21 and edit in the phone, produces excellent images.
That is a brilliant question - ‘How do I take the sharpest possible images’…that’s the goal to aim for for sure 
For serious photography, only the very best prime lenses work sharply across their full range of apertures so unless you have these, generally using f/8 and a bit smaller is a good idea if light allows - stick in the middle 50% of the f stop range for any given lens and you won’t go far wrong. Using ISO100 is a very good place to ensure you have a usable shutter speed with minimal image ‘noise’ as mentioned previously.
For people or animals, the eye HAS to be in 100% focus as it’s the first thing we look at in a person/animal image. With the drone, you can select the focus point too.
The auto setting for photography in the mini4 pro really is reliable and you can increase / decrease exposure as mentioned using the AEB photo option or manually altering the EV value a bit. When you want to do some nice video with for example your video composition ranging from green grass (low) to trees (mid height) to sky, you will need to use the ‘pro’ setting to ensure the drone isn’t changing exposure which looks a bit naff on playback. But this is tricky to get right so experiment to find the best ‘pro’ setting for the amount of prevailing light at the time of shooting.
This is a great hobby where solid footage and photos are achievable with a bit of practice
Cheeky - but you’re spot on - the last image I had printed two weeks back on metal was 40cm x 40cm 
Right ho - managed to get what I needed, just before the light went.Which actually helps the question I think! There are 6 images below. The first 2 are the Samsung Phone pics, and then the 3rd one is the same area pictured but using the drone. I will look back at the images once they have uploaded here on my desktop screen but looking at the thumbnails the DJI pic looks superior.
The next point is the main issue but I think I know what will be said. The last 4 pics are taken from the Drone and the final one of them is zoomed in, which exacerbates the issue. I feel like the issue mainly is the fact that 1) when you zoom you lose quality and 2) Despite the camera being 4K it is still the cheapest / starter point of what is available so therefore if you want better images spend more on a better camera. I then also wonder whether this is simply time of day and low light which is adding to the issue (darker foreground detail with brighter background detail).
Anyway, be interested to see what your thoughts are. Also are people cleaning camera lenses?
Then the Drone pics:
The last one in particular has no detail. I mean, this is zoomed in to maximum, in low light so maybe I am asking for it with my question, and maybe it is obvious. But I always go straight to the boundary / limit with things - hence the question!
My thoughts are they look like they’re straight off the SD card and you’ve not done any post on them? 
(hence they look like this)
Can you upload the images directly to here rather than using imgbb that way we can see the file format etc.
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Quick question, the images you have shared, the ones taken with the drone, are they JPG or RAW files?
@PingSpike said, they will probably post processing.
But f they are raw files, you’ll have a lot more scope for adjustments and recovering details
SD card in Drone so yes… any post? No I purposely did them without any amendment.
Yes - let me work out how…
JPEG - 4.15MB. That was the last pic, the worst one.
The above uploaded direct to site.
The zoom on most drones isn’t actually a zoom - it’s just a crop…same as if you hit the + icon on your laptop screen. Yes, the ‘subject’ will indeed appear closer but in reality it’s also magnifying image anomalies. In low light, the drone is already likely using a higher ISO which creates more noise in the image anyway … by zooming, you’re making the issue worse.
None of the above really applies to high end photography / video equipment where their intrinsic capabilities to eradicate lense aberration, deliver high ISO images without noise using comparatively huge sensors and thus use much higher shutter speeds will almost always deliver superior image results.
Don’t worry about it too
much … well exposed and composed sunset photographs are really really tricky to master whereas sunset snapshots are rarely going to have any real ‘wow’ factor.
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I am fully with you there - the issue I have is that I have managed to get those “shots” for the past… 8 years odd. All be it - with some slight assistance from whatever I have taken those shots with.
These are a couple of years old but for context:
People get too hung up on some of this stuff. If you are hunting perfection with a tiny sensor, fixed focus and fixed apperture lense you will fail. It just isn’t possible. The jpg images the camera shows is the softwares interpretation of what looks good. If you have a dark foreground and light backround, the software will decide, and more often than not it will get it wrong. Thats why most people will also shoot raw. The raw file is not a picture, its just all the info needed to make the picture.
Top tips:
Shoot raw
Bracket exposures
Study composition
Composition is the single most important factor in photography, almost as important is light, imho. Slight errors in the technical aspects can be overcome with bracketing and editing. A shitty composition can not easily be fixed. Ansel Adams was doing this stuff decades ago with massively inferior equipment and produced pictures none of us lot will ever get close to matching.
And yes, I wish I would listen to my own advice!!!
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Couldn’t agree more 
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The last shot is technically spot on - full depth of field, little visible noise, perfectly exposed foreground and background…top stuff.
Ah yes aperture - the Mini 3 has a fixed aperture of f1.7 - now who thought that was a good idea ?
I find that really surprising.
I was certainly surprised and a little dismayed, but then I saw Hasselblad are involved in the production, so I relaxed a little.
Perhaps they were keeping weight down and not introduce an extra mechanism to introduce an adjustable aperture.
Having said that I have, in the dim and distant past, seen lenses which had a slot into which you could drop an “aperture”; a slim piece of metal with a hole in the middle that was labelled with the corresponding aperture.
Not a camera I ever used but I believe it was current in days of yore.
With modern compound lenses it may be difficult to find a gap between elements into which such a device could be introduced - and then there is the problem of causing distortions and artefacts if the aperture blade is not in the right place - it’s actually quite complicated.
Any way … just musing.