I’ve just installed a new crsfr nano rx. After successful binding, got this red/green flashing and simultaneous drop out of signal.
Not wanting to lose signal mid flight, thought I’d just pop the question, and the question is… Wtf?
Did it do the firmware update successfully on first bind?
I’d try and do a re bind with your radio and see what outcome you get then.
This LED pattern isn’t listed in the manual
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Yep, and it’s verystrange ‘arming’ affects it.
do as @DeanoG60 says and re-flash the firmware 
Aye aye, I’m on it. Will report back momentarily…
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Some useful information here to:
Check if your model on OpenTX has a model match number if it has set it back to 00 and re bind.
I’ve created a new model and binding (including from power down on Rx) sort of half works in that the receiver recognises the nano, but the lights still flash chaotically red and green, (as soon as binding is complete) and whilst the nano shows on the tx screen, no settings are shown for it when you enter the nano.
Hmmmm
Busted rx?
Open tx is something I’ll have to learn to access…
What radio are you using?
Does sound like a busted RX. Did your quad have a CRSF nano in it before? How come your swapping it out?
Tx is frsky x lite. I’m swapping RXs because I took the antennae off the old one with a bumpy landing, and also wanted to test this nano module because I was having trouble with it on my tinyhawk…so it does seem like a bad module that I’ve wasted a few hours trying to diagnose…
Man, this is so frustrating because I just want to fly…!
Connect TX to TBS Agent X and see what it shows for the connected RX
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Can I hire you for the day, Stevie?
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What RX was you using before the Nano? Still Crossfire?
Yes still a nano. For me it’s nanos all the way. Xm+ days are long gone…
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Agreed. I’d say it’s a knackered Nano mate, especially if you was having issues with it on the Tinyhawk as well.
Its definitely wired up right isn’t it? As I know that the nano changed its pinout. Theres and old style and a new style nano.
CH out 1 to Uart RX and CH out 2 to Uart TX?
Also make sure you’re not using an inverted uart like sbus or smart port.
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Only applies to a F4 controller, I think, F7’s are OK
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Yes that is true 
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Yes the wiring is all ok, but this is just a weird binding issue so the wiring wouldn’t make a difference I don’t think?
I’ve desoldered ch1&2 anyway just in case some rogue signals were causing the problem but to no avail
Looks like its binding then losing it. Maybe a component heating up and making it drop out.
I’d disconnect it and carefully reflow it with a heatgun if you have one
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No heat gun, but I do have a credit card I can gently wave over the problem…
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Works for me, every time 
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I’d buy a new RX 
Immortal T Edition:
Whip antenna Edition:
Discount Code: VFG52DB
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