Destroyed my FC with a soldering iron!

Hi everyone.
So I’m building an Eachine Tyro79 pro… but I’ve just screwed up the FC. Got heavy handed with soldering and tore off the rx1 solder tab, thus(I understand) destroying the whole F4 AIO FC.
I’m running Flysky ibus so for some reason the rx yellow wire goes to rx1.

Soooo I need another F4 AIO 35amp FC. BUT I’d like to run GPS at some point, but this also needs an rx1 tab. Are there FCs out there with multiple rx1s so I can run ibus and GPS?

Crikey this is complicated.

Thanks for your help!

not necessarily, you’ve just destroyed Uart 1 Not being familiar with the board myself I’m not sure how many Uarts its has but just use a different Uart?

Its a good point…

Hopefully I’ve attached a pic. You can see the destroyed tabs on the right side. Not sure how the whole uart thing works.

So a Uart will have an RX pad and a TX pad, and are normally displayed on the board as RX1/TX1 is Uart 1 or there could be RX4 and TX4 this would be Uart4. just look on the board for another RX/TX with a different number. Then you’ll need to tell Betaflight or what ever firmware you are running on the board what Uart is being used. Have a look at the wiring diagram for your board and see if you can see another spare Uart to use.

Ahhhh… I see, the mist is starting to clear.

So the above link is the schematic for my FC. Sadly i can only see an Rx1, and no Rx2. Do i have only 1 Uart.

Thanks so much for your incredibly prompt help by the way!

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looks like 2 Uarts

Uart1 (burnt out)

and Uart2 R2 and TX2 So yes you won’t be able to fit a GPS later.

That is a bloody awful diagram… There’s also the mysterious RC…

Good luck with R2… that looks like a small pad in an awful position! If you don’t feel up to soldering onto it get someone to help!

BTW… F411 are cut down microcontrollers. They have fewer UARTS than the F405 models.

Get an F405 one… they “should” have loads of UARTS… sometimes up to 6.

You actually really want 3…

  • Receiver
  • Video transmitter control (Smartaudio or MSP DisplayPort)
  • GPS

Your flysky may be able to transmit in sbus. So uart 2 can still be free.

Thanks for your help everyone. I might have a go at using that tiny spare pad - got nothing to lose!
If all else fails, its a new FC!

Not sure I would use an AIO at 35A anyway.

The advice Yith gave on getting an F405 is very valid and will save you hassle. You can get an F405 stack for £70, such as the Speedybee 50A F405. If you blow the ESC, it’s a new ESC board for £30-40 or hack a single ESC on to it for a tenner. But if you blow the ESC on an AIO, its a new AIO at whatever that costs (£50-100?). Also on that F405 you get 6 uarts, so you can play with other things like GPS and Barometers (if you don’t have one).

AIO FC’s are useful for whoop and small sized frames, generally in the 5-15A size, but beyond that, stacks or individual ESCs are where it’s at, depending on what you prefer.

This is confirming what i was starting to suspect. AIOs do seem a bit limited. Stacks (if i can fit one in) seem to have far more options. And I reckon I could reuse one when I upgrade to a 5inch.

One other question, how normal is it
to have 4 speed controllers, one on each arm? Is this a bit outdated?

Thanks so much for your help

Yes… unless over 7"

Excellent. I wish I’d found this forum earlier. YouTube is all very well until you realise you’re watching a video that’s 4 years old and subsequently out of date.
Things seem to move pretty quickly in this sport!

Depends what you’re building, whether you have an easy amount of cashflow that means you are happy to possibly spend more money if things break. The downside to a 4in1 ESC is if you blow an ESC, it’s going to cost you £40 for a new board. If you blow an individual ESC it’s going to cost you £10.

But you tend to find individual ESC’s more on racing quads or if you were just interested in building one for the hell of it. I have a build on the go that uses them at the minute, not because I have any real reason to do it besides just wanting to do it.

It’s swings and roundabouts. If you go with a 4in1 and it breaks it costs more to replace, but it saves you 40-44 solder joints. If you go with individual escs, it costs less to replace one, but you have to do more soldering. So it depends on your circumstances (good job, lots of spare money for expensive parts vs no real money and ok with extra hassle) and how good you are at soldering I guess.