FPV Propellors a pain in the @

H&S and understand why Joshua Bardwell always stating remove Propellors before adjusting settings.

Atm I have to say this is a pain in the @rse as atm continuously adjusting settings and today had to reset from scratch again.

My question is do you always do this or only when playing around with the motors, do you while going back and forth keep putting in taking out the 8 screws or not or just leave out and push on and off.

Thanks

You don’t need to take the props off when the ESCs aren’t even powered and you don’t normally need to even plug in a battery to change most things, PIDs etc. the board will take power from the USB.

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What @Loopdreams said. There isn’t enough power in USB to spin the motors so as long as you don’t have a battery connected you’re fine.

And to be brutally honest for a 2.5inch micro like your tinyhawk, providing you’re not actually messing with the motors then I wouldn’t bother taking them off anyways.

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When I have my TH2FS connected to betaflight if I am unsure I just pop my finger on the top of the battery and press slightly. The weight of your hand will stop it doing anything.

As @Loopdreams previously stated, it will not start the props anyway if just connected to the laptop with the usb. If you need to start the props (to test) you have to connect a battery anyway. Make sure the usb cable is out of the way and as above, press down on the battery with your spare hand.
Obviously please make sure you don’t get anything in the area of the props before and during the time you do this.

:+1:

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I’ll confess to having done that before (even then I’ve put the thing on the floor and put my foot on it) but it’s not really the best idea when you’re messing around with the config at the same time. If it does decide for some reason to try and fly to the moon then you’d have to just keep hold of it until the battery runs out. This is with a 5 inch quad but still, far better to just take the props off really.

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OMG,

I’m talking about the TH2, with a 5" quad I would have it tethered to floor in garage, if I dared to do it with the props on.

#bigganutsthanme

lol

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On my THFS the props will quite happily stay on the motors, push fit, without having to use the prop screws. I’m happier to lose a prop in a crash than bend a motor shaft, or fry the ESC’s if a prop gets jammed.

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In this case definitely.

I’ll admit I’ve rolled the dice in the past and lost. Disabling all the safety precautions in Betaflight to do an arming test, only to have the quad fly at your face because you had the wrong channel map. This was in the day prior to Betaflight needing the throttle at minimum for arming.

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I am pretty cautious around these things generally, I think from just regular RC days I’ve seen enough hands in propellers to know that it’s something worth taking pains to avoid. Touchwood the worst I’ve had in nearly 40 years was pretty much a paper cut when I got complacent with an ultra micro model lol.

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The most frightening machine I have is a collective pitch quad running on 6s. Some days just hitting the idle up switch is enough to give me palpitations, hence it’s seen little air time. I usually end up having to make a cup of camomile tea and lie down in a dark room to the sound of whale song,

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Thanks for info, ever since I once went to grab a drone out of the air on landing and got clipped :scream::scream: it was a bloody mess and cried all the way home :sob::sob::sob::sob::sob: could not pick my nose for a few months :lying_face::stuck_out_tongue:

Thanks removed prop screws as the props really tight already :+1: definitely be crashing multiple times, :roll_eyes:

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Take props off
Turn them over
Swap the two front ones
Swap the two rear ones
Fit them back on motors

Now it will stick to the bench when you power them up :slightly_smiling_face:

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Ya know, that’s a brilliant idea.

:facepunch:

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I use the same procedure when auto calibrating the compass offsets, to accommodate for the changes in the near field magnetic field strength, when the motors are under load, on my Pixhawk and APM builds.

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Should have done it from day one and never changed them even when flying outside :sunglasses:

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If it’s on your work bench then on anything with 3" props and up:-
Battery not connected = props can stay on.
Battery connected = take the bloody props off !

On anything below 3" with small motors then it stings a bit if you get a finger caught, but you wouldn’t want it in your face.

Out in the field if the battery is still connected and I want to make a quick change I connect the FC using a long (3m) USB cable connected to my phone running the SpeedyBee app (or you can use the wireless SpeedyBee adapter instead of the USB). If it suddenly spins the motors I am ready to disarm quickly - one thing I never mess when the battery is connected is the arm/disarm mode settings. I also have a 2 button arm sequence (with a low throttle condition as well) and a singe button disarm, so arming can never be done accidentally and disarming is really quick and simple. This also makes landing with airmode on easier as you just disarm when you’re a couple of inches off the ground.

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