Maiden Flight - 9 Secs but it get better

(Insert joke about losing cherry and only lasing 9 seconds.)

By second battery, improved was demonstrated.

OMG what fun!

Thanks to @PathfinderFPV @notveryprettyboy @cst3x6 @Howard78 @Earwig @Yith for advice and tips.

Love it. I have the bug.


So flying wise, you are doing better than most, but once you fly a few times it gets pretty straightforward. My first flight was very high and scared the crap out of me. My nephew then did the same and took his whoop up about 50m while staring at the ground (with VR02’s).

Other observations/suggestions.

So you probably don’t need the vtx running at 400mW. :wink: Top right of your OSD. Off the top of my head, the smart audio stick sequence is left yaw, pitch up to bring up the menu. Then change vtx power to 100mW or 200mW. I only use 350+ when i’m flying 300-400m away. Or you can do it from Betaflight. Also while you are in the vtx settings, change your channel to Race 8 (which is above the freq used by wifi). When done the top right of your OSD should say R:8:100 or R:8:200.

Also set Low Power Disarm to On (in Betaflight), which will run your vtx at 25mW until you arm and then drop it back when you disarm (so it doesn’t cook when you aren’t flying).

If you plug in USB or a Lipo while it’s on the bench, point a fan at it. They overheat easily when not flying.

Your rx signal seems a bit low at 16-19. This one I can’t suggest a fix for. It should be a lot better when you are that close. It could be setup incorrectly. One of us will be able to look at it for you when you get to Corby.

For now just enjoy it, oh and don’t use turtle until you understand the dangers of using turtle. Better to walk over and pick it up or flip it over manually.


Thats great news ! Also , welcome to the dark side.


I thought that came when you built a 5" and started wearing a trench coat while using DJI goggles.

Well, there’s dark sides and there’s dark sides.

Way better than me when I started. Wait until you fly acro. It’ll all open up then :+1:

What a plonker I am! I told you my eyesight was bad… Did not notice until you said I was in angl(e) mode not Acro!


Today we learnt about Betaflight switches…

Hey if you can fly in acro, do it. As much as I am more of taking it slowly and safely sort of guy, if you can fly it full manual, just do it.

But generally the difference in control, is in angle you can ram the stick all the way to the edge of any axis and it won’t flip or roll. It also self levels which makes it massively useful when landing or if you need to scratch your nose or swat that fly that just landed on you. Although nothing stops you flying in acro and switching to angle to scratch that itch, then flipping the switch back to acro.

In acro you can only push those sticks a little bit before it flips or rolls. So to fly in acro, be really gentle on the controls (except throttle). Try and find somewhere like an open field with no trees as well, so you have nothing to crash into if you get the jitters. Last thing you want is to land it in the top of a tree, because then you have to climb it to get it back. And yes you will crash a lot. But that’s part of learning to fly.


The first time out the drone felt very dissimilar to the simulator, which I kind of expected. However I need to go out to see it it did not feel right - because I had practised ACRO mode or something else.

It did also feel fast compared to the sim, but I think that was because the field was quite small and in a sim its less risky to go over trees. There is an open field further away (big smog of south London) which I may venture out.

How long is a piece of string … Winds are around 11 m/s (strong gusts) at the moment. So I think it too windy

All good tips on this tread - thanks.

All good and done.

Might need help adjusting the rates, as it damn fast. But I not touching too much at the moment.

There was not much of Manual to RTFM. I plan to document all the tip/guide in a few weeks to consolidate what i’ve learned and reference to other and myself when forget.

The “rates” are the rate that your quad will respond to your stick inputs. For example high rates when doing a roll will make your quad roll faster than if you try the same maneuver with low rates.
If when sayings its “damn fast” you mean it flys really fast and you want to slow it down its the camera angle you want to adjust. High camera angle equals fast quad low camera angle equals slow quad. Generally I would say most people fly with around 20 degree camera angle so start there and then increase or decrease the camera angle until you feel comfortable

Camera angle was at 35’ now down to 15’ - thanks

That should slow you down a little until you get used to flying it :smile:

Rates should be set to default for BF. I would start out by getting used to them. i still fly default rates on all my quads. In time you will probably find them too slow if you go in for doing aerobatics. To do a roll on default rates is not too fast, but not overly slow. Good for a beginner. but when you look at what most people use, they are probably 33% slower (many seem to run around 1000 on all three, stock is 667, i think).

The moving fast, you will get used to it. It’s less of an issue in a big open area and only really becomes an issue if say flying in a bedroom or in a small back garden. 1S is fast, but slow. When you get or build stuff that runs on bigger lipos, then it really gets fast and powerful. ;).

So turtle on a flat surface is ok to do. In grass, not so much. Basically, if you think the props will catch on anything, don’t use turtle. Doing so runs the risk of burning out motors and esc’s. Considering a new FC is £35-60 for an AIO board, it’s just simpler to walk over and pick it up. I didn’t really enable mine until I’d been flying for a few months. it’s less of an issue on bigger quads that generate lots of torque, but on 1-3S, it’s better to not chance it, unless you are flying a bando, in which case you should enable it. if you manage to crash on a roof, turtle might be the only way to get the quad down. But when you use it, short bursts of left or right pitch, like just flick it. Don’t push and hold. You might be better watching a YT vid on how to turtle. I’m probably doing a poor job of explaining it. :stuck_out_tongue:

Turtle is generally ok on a 1S tinywhoop. In fact you will crash so much with one that it is essential.

Just not in thick grass. I picked up a broken Flea the other day from UMT. Someone had turtled in grass and the props weren’t able to spin, which resulted in a blown mosfet, and for me 4 working motors, a 200mW VTX, an Ant nano camera and a 3S Lipo for a tenner. :slight_smile: Would have liked to be able to fix the FC as they are kinda nice, but might still be able to bypass it with a single esc.

Bearing in mind that was a 3S motor/esc. i’ve had two 1S whoops out of UMT last year that had suffered the same fate due to turtle abuse and two Cetus.

If you are going to use it, learn when to use it and when not to. Also be aware props can shatter when you use it on hard surfaces, as I found out two weeks back when i turtled my Meteor85 on my sisters kitchen floor (polished wood) and one of the props completely atomised into really small pieces of polycarb. :smiley:

Or in a dodgy dust filled chesterfield bando… Only time I’ve killed an FC… No harm having the switch there if you want it. TBH I rarely turtle now afetr that £70 blow up (only had H7s in stock when replaced too!)

Totally forgot to mention that.

Places with iron dust on the ground are supposed to be the worst. Basically frag your esc and fc, plus anything else with power running through it.

@bmsleight - Nice going! Good to see another bitten by the bug… welcome to the show. :star_struck: