New FPV run through

It has been around 3/4 weeks now since I decided I was going to get a full FPV set up, and I wanted to share the results.
Whether anyone cares, whether it’s a story for someone to read whilst flicking through the forum, or actually, whether someone who is thinking of jumping into this - costs, equipment people don’t mention, trials and tribulations and honestly, the best fun I’ve had entering a hobby.. EVER!!

I’d be interested in hearing the thoughts from others, opinions and information sharing - good or bad.

I will start by saying a massive thank you to everyone who has commented, shared opinions and supported decisions and generally gave advice on my previous posts :smiling_face_with_three_hearts:

RIght.
I chose my radio first. Had to be ELRS and has to be something that would last me but more importantly, grow with me and be used with other quads in the future. Buy once kinda deal.

RadioMaster Boxer ELRS £140 - have seen on Instagram that the price of some of the radio master equipment is rising due to a shortage of hardware and parts.

Wicked Radio, god bless Joshua Bardwell’s YouTube channel! :joy:
The radio and its batteries arrived along with the goggles and lipo battery charger.
Perfect really, because I was straight onto the laptop, downloading LiftOff, LiftOff Micro drones and Uncrashed - Lift Off has become brilliant in getting used to Arco mode flying, and I’ve spent hours on this sim. I am still getting used to flying. So much going on; every little input has dramatic effects.

I have managed to get the radio up, modes, assigning sounds to button inputs, calibrate gimbals, set up bandwidths and power outputs relevant to what I’m flying, but also understanding how to change it and when, depending on particular flights.

The goggles.
Chose the DJI goggles N3.
Honestly, toss up between these and the Goggles 3. As you may know the goggles 3 are around £550-£600 and the N3 Goggles are £250. I didn’t see the need at the moment for the features the pricer model would give me and after a lot of back and forth went for the N3. I always knew I’d be flying digital - using a DJI air unit in the drone, so these seemed the obvious purchase.
Easy setup, activated and firmware update using the DJI assistant 2 app. Remember to turn the OTD wired connection on, otherwise you’ll be using a phone app to do this - this took me a minute to work out!

Lets talk drone
As above. Had to have an ELRS unit and had to be HD/digital. I read about the DJI 04 unit lite and pro and decided I wanted the pro out of the 2.
Next was size, cinewhoop or 5"? The choice between just these sizes was because I didn’t want to go larger, wanted something I could spin and have fun with, but mainly cinematic profile.
I looked at tiny whoops, but didnt want to get into analog. Yet. Side note, have been looking at the tiny whoops with 04 units in them…! One for a little down the road me thinks!

I chose the Beta FPV Pavo 20 Pro II, DJI 04 air unit pro and ELRS. £370. I did spend a little more to create a bundle. The drone came direct from BetaFPV, with spare frame, 2 sets of props, 2 LED strips - the standard and Nightfire.
I installed the Nightfire, which was easy, standard JST plug adapter. Stick the 3m tape LED around the ducts of the drone, jobs a good’en. 2 buttons either side of the XT battery input, 1 for colour changing and 1 controls the light pattern. Would like to see if I can route these buttons to the radio, project for the future.

You’ll notice the fan in the back ground. In the heat we are having at the moment, great for when I’m sat at the table on the laptop configuring, but a must to keep the drones boards cool! £10 from Men Kind. Comes with a little freezer pack and tray in the back of it should you wish to be cooler!

Batteries etc!
Amazon came up trumps with some genuine cheap Lava batteries. Recommended by Beta FPV was the Lava 3s 550mah packs. So I brought 2 580mah 3s and managed to find 4 550mah 3s batteries from Beta FPV online. £18.60 for 2 550mah from Beta FPV ( I got 4) and the 580s were £30 from amazon.
If you are reading this as a beginner.. do your research on batteries, charging them, safe keeping and storage. Don’t let the articles and videos scare you, if you are sensible, all will be well, but take this part seriously!!
The charger is the SkyRC B6Neo £32.50. Well respected, small charger. Charges 1 battery at a time and using 75w or more standard USB-C charging cable. The XT60 input obviously didn’t match the XT30 connector on the Lava batteries, so a £7 adapter cable from Amazon was purchased.
Really versitile little charger that does way more than you think.
BetaFPV also had a Lipo safe bag £5, which I charge/discharge the batteries in and also store them in.


Other little bits I had to get; tools, spare motors (i’ll explain below :sweat_smile:) radio landyard, GPS unit.
Tool kit is a simple one £53, (Newbeedrone) has everything to solder, screw driver with drone specific bits, cutters, tweezers.. etc etc. I will admit, the solder iron isn’t the best, but it will get me out of a jam!
radio landyard… well why not and the GPS unit is for a project once the drone is flying. You’ve probably guessed, the Pavo 20 doesn’t come with one, so I brought the HGLRC M100-5883 GPS Module - this was just what I have read works with this drone well. £15. Spare motors were £11.90 each (£23.80 x2) landyard was £6.




So once everything was on the table, it is obviously time to get it all configured. It has to be said, if you connect the radio, goggles and drone together once you have firmware updated and activated the relevant bits.. this IS a bind and fly. Not me though.

I went and downloaded Beta Flight and made sure the drone was fully set up. Top to bottom configured. Hours of Josh Bardwell and even more hours of reading.
6 or so hours passed by. Set the drone on the grass in the garden. Pulled the goggles over my eyes. Honestly, adreniline was pumping. Aprehension. Excitment.
Flicked the switched on the radio I’d progammed to arm and disarm the drone, lovely ladies voice came over the radio, ‘armed’.
Gently raised the throttle. Could hear the props turning.
Then literally 2 seconds later, the drone skipped along the grass, made some horid noise and I disarmed it.
:speaking_head:‘Disarmed’

Long story short. As of yet, no idea why, but I now have a broken JST connector on the FC/ESC board! Hence buying the new motors! For spares but to replace the one I thought might be broken. It’s not broken, but the right angle JST connector on the board is!
I now have the choice to direct solder the motors. More risk or replace the JST connector. The latter is probably what will happen.

So, 3-5 weeks of waiting. 6 or so hours of configuration. For 3 seonds of what im not calling flight, but skidding!

This is such an incredible hobby, I’ve realised more and more, this isn’t just about the flying, its the building, repairing, configuring, learning and adapting as well. And I bloody love it!

So if you include the sim’s I brought from Steam online, I am sitting at a few quid short of £1000. In my opinion, worth every penny. Seems crazy to some, spend all that money and still not have anything working, but it is, I chose to make it work in a different way!!
Yes, no flight yet, but I have become very versed with configuration - the whys whats and hows. The connectivity between everything and my understanding in general has drastically increased over the last month or so.

I’ll update post JST change, with hopefully a proper flight.
Hopefully this hasn’t been a slog to read, as above, please offer any info you feel neccessary.

Thanks

Quick edit/add:
Smoke stopper is being ordered before anyone suggests that bit!

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Don’t forget to post videos :+1:

Book the Big Meet

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Sounds like the journey / experience I had.

I can 100% agree with you, about the fun you have experienced during the time you’ve had in this hobby. :+1:t2:

My maiden flight with my first proper FPV quad (Speedybee Bee25) lasted about 20 seconds, before I crashed it, resulting in a broken XT30 connector, the one that was hard mounted to the quad :enraged_face:

After a couple of weeks trying to repair it myself, following YT tutorials and advice from forum members, I still couldn’t fix it, then 2x forum members properly stepped up to assist, one took my quad home and completely rewired the quad ( @stevesb ), but it still would fly because somehow I had screwed up the firmware too, so the second member ( @DeanoG60 ) spent a couple of hours with me via a zoom video call, guiding me through the process of re-flashing the Betaflight firmware and the appropriate Speedybee tune settings.

Since then, I’ve purchased a number of other quads (whoops and larger deadcat style quads) all of which I’ve crashed and nearly lost, was it not for other members support in finding them, they would still be lost in the long grass, bushes or trees at random meet locations across Derbyshire or North West.

This hobby certainly brings people together, all of whom are happy to assist and share their experiences.

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Well done ! Just like you, I started 5 years ago! My current setup is the DJI Goggles 3 with mostly custom-built 5-inch quads with RadiomasterTX15 Max, though I absolutely love flying my DJI Air 3S too.

Honestly, you’re missing out if you aren’t using an FPV simulator. When I first started, I broke 10 quads and had 3 flyaways. Save yourself the headache—just install Steam, plug in your RadioMaster, and get some practice hours in!

​To get a RadioMaster radio talking to Steam simulators, these resources cover the exact step-by-step process for setting up internal radio models, USB joystick modes, and in-game calibration:

RadioMaster Simulator Setup Guide by Oscar Liang’s T8L & Basic Radio Simulator Guide

(provides an excellent breakdown of how to calibrate and map channels for RadioMaster controllers using USB-C).

Liftoff Steam Integration: The official Liftoff Simulator Support

(support details controller calibration settings and troubleshooting common stick-mapping errors in Steam).

Have fun!

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Thanks @binay - ive had the boxer set up with LiftOff for a while now. Racking up the practice hours. Muscle memory really.

Stuggle with smooth turns. But ill get there.
Oscar has been a brilliant resource. Read his pages quite a lot.

Thanks for sharing the links.

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That was a great read @TheBinman

Feel your pain. Loosing bits, having to recover them. Working out the config and building it a difficult learn at times.
Only thing I have on my side at the moment is my day job is within software and IT networking. So, all the power, frequencies etc all make sense - at the moment!

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I am glad we all have to go through this learning curve, which feels like an adventure to me. Since I work in IT as well—it is great to see a fellow IT professional in the FPV community—weekends are usually my main flying time.

@binay I wouldn’t say IT professional! :sweat_smile: I do understand and work with networks daily; but no pro!! It certainly helps with this little lot!

Tonight’s attention turned to that motor!
Not to ruin it, but the smoke stopper arrived today, and boy I’m glad I had it!

I got the soldering iron out, had a little rehash - I’m not going to post pictures of a practice board with soldered pads, but I will post some findings.

The Pavo was stripped. All motors off. DJI unit off, top/bottom plate and ducts off. To leave me with the FC/ESC with JST connectors where the motors plug in.

So here is the motor connector.

That looks very… melted!

Which then led me to peer into the male end of the FC/ESC…


The keen eyed in you will notice the melted plastic from the female connector in the male connector.
Little pin flicked it all out, and I test-fitted a new motor. Llllliiikkkke a glove!


Random pic taking it apart!

If I said the pavo went back together once, and I tested, would be a lie. First time I screwed it all together, I nearly caught the ELRS antenna.
Second time it was all nearly screwed together, noticed the battery and VTX cables were hanging out and would be chewed by the props.

This went on a few times.
Finally back together, smoke stopper on, lipo on.. passed.
Ok, so connected it to BF and we were golden. Until I tested the failed motor.
Smoke Stopper sang me a lovely tune. I panicked. Removed the battery.
Failure!

But I have learned some key things.
When you put it back together - check cable routing - don’t forget this.
I can still solder after many years.

Lastly, after looking back over it. I have noticed the JST connector we saw above with some melted plastic in it I was able to clear, did move on the board. Not much, but more than the others.

I now looking at 2 options.
Still a new JST plug - if anyone knows the exact one I need, please sign post me!
Never knew it was so difficult to source a right angle JST connector!
Option 2, buy a heat gun and remove the JST. Direct solder the motors to the board.

Thoughts please!!

So the pavo still rests!

Just solder to the pads not need to remove the connectors

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Mate, why didnt i think of that, such a obvious great idea! Thank you!

So in an glorious - this sounds like this bloke has no idea - update.
JST was removed, handed the board to a professional.. a guy who runs a business soldering PCBs and got a call from him..

‘Erm. Im so sorry, but whilst trying the solder your motor onto the pads, ive removed the brass pads..’

Wow!

So now im on the hunt for a new FC/ESC for that motor. Ive a company contacting BetaFPV for the OEM flight board as they are out of stock every where!

Not to be beaten.
I took delivery of the HappyModel Mobula 8 04 this morning.
Thats all connected and works… just..
Takes off, spins in a circle or 2 and lands.
Checked motors, checked CLI for RX faults. Binds are all good.
Checked bi-directional, checked correct ELRS UART settings.. been through alot.

Im going to start another thread on this. But the flash might be the issue.

Checked motor directions and props fitted correctly?