7 inch quad build thread. Start to finish

May want to look into Li-ion packs at that price! :rofl:

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Good point Dean. Hmmmm

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Won’t be any good for freestyle or punch outs but would be perfect for cruising :ok_hand:t2: easy 20 minutes of flight time too :+1:t2:


Lipo batteries are lithium polymer. Li-ion batteries are made from lithium and erm ions :rofl:
Lipo batteries can produce a high current output for quick acceleration etc.
Li-ion batteries wont supply as much current, but are more energy dense. Pound for pound, their mah is larger, so the flight time is longer.

@DeanoG60 please supply a Translation :rofl:

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My bad :rofl:

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Lmao you bunch of smart arses :rofl:
When I said I don’t understand your FPV language I wasn’t talking about batteries and general tech talk lol Its all the FPV specific abbreviations stitched together like below



On screen display

Link quality

Connection loss between radio transmitter and the quad.

A transmission protocol linking the the radio transmitter to the quad.

Receiver to receive the stick commands and any other information sent from the radio.

Think of a UART as a flight controller’s (the main circuit board of the quad) USB ports you solder peripherals to them like GPS units RX’s all sorts of different things can use a UART.

Is a type of Crossfire RX (really small :+1:t2:)

TBS is the brand (Team Black Sheep) Unify Pro32 Nano is the model and size of the video transmitter :+1:t2:

TinyLED’s is the brand and a Sled is a mounting circuit board where you solder a board into a board:

TrueRC is the brand RHCP is Right hand Polarisation of the Antenna. This must match on both ends transmitting antenna and receiving antenna.

Is similar to Link Quality this is your signal strength between the RX on the quad and the TX on the radio.

:grin: hope this helps :+1:t2:


Haha yeah much better thanks Deano I’m an expert now :rofl: I guess this is the sort of stuff I would pick up while building my Quad. I find it all very interesting reading posts in the Racing Quad, Self-builds and FPV section. I often read through these threads even though I can’t add anything to the conversations :rofl:

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Stick around you’ll pick it up a long the way :+1:t2:

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Don’t worry mate I’ll be watching and hopefully learning along the way lol and when I have the time and money to build my own I will be coming here to ask you guys all sorts of silly questions no doubt :grin:

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Couldn’t resist ordering my motors early this morning, tagged a few props on to the same order, chose these props purely because it’s all Umannedtechshop had in stock, though they are most suitable, first time using foldables other than on my MP1, they have good reports from knowledgable contributors to the drone community, friend Pawel (inav guru) etc. :slight_smile:
@UnmannedCam feel free to chip in with some sponsored parts for this project, bit of targeted advertising :shushing_face: :smile:

I’ll follow up later with why I chose these motors,

Wouldn’t Bi-Blades be better for a long range cruiser? You don’t need the grip in the turns that tri-blades give? I haven’t really done too much research into the differences between Bi-Blade and Tri-Blade props but most of the BNF’s that are built for long range come with Bi-Blades? :thinking:

Think I might go for a 1300 kv 25xx motor. Not sure… I seen one with a thrust of 2500g!

There may be other members who are not as familiar with these terms as you.
This thread is aimed at ANYBODY on the forum who wants to understand the technicalities of building their own quad

Steve :slightly_smiling_face:


Possibly. That’s for the experimental stage :+1:

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I agree. We aren’t taking the piss mate, but if we explain as much as we can, it will help as many people as possible.


You buggers!! You beat me to it.

If I can get my pants on without falling over, again, I intend to start my Tyro 129 7inch build today.

I’m curious about this also. The Tyro129 is supplied with Tri-Blade props but other long range machines, like the Flywoo Explorer and the newer hex version, use Bi-Blades. My IRC Xugong 2 Pro uses 9x4.5 Bi-Blade props but these are supplied with and part of DJI E310 tuned propulsion system I’ve installed.

When I get more proficient at putting my pants on I intend to compare some Dal Tri-Blade 5x4 folding props against the Gemfan 5x4 Bi-Blades on one of my Vortex 285’s that I’m currently tuning for Long Range, or endurance, purposes.



Sorry guys, after me saying the other day that I cant understand all your FPV language I assumed that you were explaining every detail for my benefit :grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes: but thats a fair point you have both made. I wasn’t considering other future builders potential knowledge levels. I think this is a great thread idea and I’m sure that l, along with many others will find it very helpful.
Appreciate you all taking the time to document and explain the build as you go.
Quick question… is this going to be pretty much the same basics for any build? Are there any differences between this 7", a 5" and say a Tiny Hawk build?

Yeah. The basics are pretty much the same. There are core components to an fpv quad:
ESC (motor controller)
FC (flight controller)
FPV camera
vtx (video transmitter)
RX/TX (the controller in your hand and in your quad)

I think that’s basically it, other than add ons like a gps or hd camera etc


As the platform gets smaller they can be a bit more fiddly, smaller components, smaller screws to feed the vacuum cleaner, etc.

One thing sometimes overlooked with bigger frames is the need for a higher wattage soldering iron. Bigger solder contact points will leach heat away from low powered irons irrespective of tip temperature. As an example on my 10inch and larger builds where the power distribution board is also the bottom of the frame, I will use an iron with at least an 80Watt rating as I also use heavy gauge wiring which again is very good at draining the life force of less powerful iron’s. Where as even a 15Watt iron is plenty for wiring in things like receivers and video transmitters, and even motor and ESC connectors on small builds.

On very tiny soldering jobs I prefer to use a solder paste as this has a very low working temperature (in paste form less than 200degrees C) which reduces the risk of accidentally damaging nearby sensitive components. I’ll use either a very low powered iron, or for multi pinned components a hot air blower.