something else to look at
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I have some reading to do
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Iām not using mine at the moment so you can āplay before you buyā if you want.
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Iām thinking this audio solution with the Minifly module is probably the least complicated for just antenna tracking.
This guy sorted his easy enough
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I really think its the way to go for long range on our road trip. If @DeanoG60 can spunk some bones on a 7" and catch up 
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Here is the first video in this 7" Quadcopter build series.
Covering the basic build of the frame, future videos will include:-
- FC/Motor/ESc fitting and connection.
- GPS installation
- RC receiver unit and antenna choice and installation
- Flashing Inav firmware to flight controller configuration setup, initial on- bench testing
- FPV transmitter and antenna / choice and installation
- FPV camera choice and installation
- HD camera choice and instalation
- anything else based on your requests.
Some topics may be duplicated as Karl @notveryprettyboy will be using slightly different parts and configuration to myself.
Bloopers (that I know of)
Carbon fibre parts NOT glass fibre
Spacers and standoffs are the same thing
Motors are Brother Hobby not Hobby Mount
When watching on YouTube, ālike and subscribeā to be notified when next installment is available
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Here is my AIO ESC (All in one electronic speed controller).
This connects between the flight controller and the 3 phase motors (3 outputs each for the 4 motors).
It also takes the main battery voltage.
The kit came with:
ESC;
Lipo wires, xt60 connector & cap;
Smoothing capacitor;
A selection of dampening grommits;
2 fc to esc ribbon connectors, one fully made, the other half made so the particular outputs of the fc match the esc.
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Thatās the hard work done! Soldering the lipo wires to the esc. Iāve been soldering since I was 10, and Iām still bloody naff.
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On those larger surfaces, such as the contact points for the battery cable, I will use a fine abrasive (gentle rubbing with some fine wet and dry) to clean any surface oxide off and score the surface. The microscopic scoring increases the surface area and improves the adhesion of the flux I apply prior to soldering. Youāll then find the solder will flow to cover the contact pad entirely ensuring a strong physical bond.
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Cheers Nidge. I got lucky this time. I cleaned with 70% alcohol and fluxed. Still not great. But ok for a Ā£7 Aldi soldering iron.
Can you or @Steviegeek recommend a good soldering workstation? Enough wattage for the gnd pads and a nice heat gun?
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I usually find the negative pad is the worst because they ground plane sinks all the heat away from the solder tip
The Matek flight controller signal ground pads donāt have any thermal breaks and can be pigs to solder with the correct tip size for the pad. If your reading this Matek please remember these pads donāt take any great current so please use thermal breaks, Iāve only noticed this anomaly on Matek boards 
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What is a thermal break? Pcb wise
What is a thermal break? Pcb wise?
Instead of having a hole in the copper plane a ring of copper is āremovedā creating an isolated pad which is then joined to the copper plane with usually four ātracksā sufficient to carry the required current but resisting mass heat removal from the tip
Difficult to explain in words Iāll send a diagram when Iām at the laptop
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No rush. Intrigued.
Ah. So you bridge the four tracks later?
I use one of these. A Yihua 853D.
The iron is rated at 75watt with a max temp just short of 500degrees C.
The blower is rated at 725Watt
It also has a useful 2amp variable voltage and adjustable current limit power supply, it also doubles as a basic Volt meter. It comes with an assortment of tips for the iron and the blower.
I purchased it from Amazon a few years ago, I think it was about Ā£80.
I have had to replace the iron as I got a bit enthusiastic changing the tip one day and stripped the thread on the collar of barrel.
I also have a cheap 48Watt temperature controlled iron that I use around the house, you never know when the urge to solder a motor to an ESC while in the bath may hit you.
For out in the field I use a Gas Powered Weller Pyropen. These are not cheap but they last a lifetime and I think they are comparable to a 250watt electric iron. I mainly used it for soldering large RF connectors while hanging precariously from an antenna mast in very low temperatures.
Nidge.
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The left hand pad has no āthermal breakā and the heat will be drawn out of the soldering tip very quickly by the copper mass.
Th right hand pad is easier to solder as the heat transfers more slowly through the four ātracksā. The designer ensures the width, and thickness, of the four tracks is sufficient for the current carrying requirements of the design when in use.
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Here is my fr7 tail which holds the bn220 gps, xt60 and a pigtail for the vtx antenna.
I might angle the xt60 30 degrees with the rest to ease the strain on the lipo wires. Also may move the esc towards the back to reduce the length of the main current carrying wires, if the front motor wires will reach.
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