After some great advice from @RestlessZombi thought I’d create a quick thread, just generally looking for some backseat driving here so if you see anything I’ve done that’s dumb or have a particular axe to grind, feel free to call me out, no offense will be taken!
This is my first build, and prior to this I’d never even held a soldering iron; as a software dev, hardware problems have always been someone else’s kettle of fish. Parts I’ve got so far / intend to put together (note ahead of time that apart from attempting to make sure parts are compatible, my biggest driver so far has been what’s in ruddy stock as opposed to trying to fit a specific flying style so advice on replacements/corrections more than welcome):
DJI O3 Air Unit
Volador II VD5 O3 Deadcat FPV T700 Frame Kit
Mamba F405MK2 V2 Flight Stack
iFlight XING-E Pro 2306 Motors (1700 KV)
Ethix S3 5031 Propellers
TBS Crossfire Nano Receiver (Special Edition)
The intent is to fly this with DJI Goggles 2, TBS Tango 2 (Crossfire) radio, and on 6S batteries (currently stocking Tattu R-Line 1400mAh v5’s to try out). I went with deadcat because for now I don’t mind the O3 video output and don’t own a gopro yet so wanted to ensure props were out of frame. I’m a novice flyer still so I’m hoping the frame can take small knocks into grass while I learn (how to fly, how to better setup the drone, how to do basic freestyle stunts, how to get best footage for gyroflow/colour grading, etc)
Construction to date is… about 1/4 done maybe? Last session I added solder to the board for the prop cables, looking at it now I think I might need more.
Some questions that you’re more than welcome to ignore if you’d like to jump into build slamming!
How many motors do people buy when doing a new build? By the time I get this finished, get a chance to fly, inevitably slam it into the ground, and require (if I’m lucky…) a motor change, I half expect the same motors to be out of stock or deprecated so I bought 6 of them (2 spare).
How necessary do people feel a GPS module are? I’m not building a long range cruiser here and I’m a little non-plussed by the various youtube videos showing how long you have to wait (and how much battery you waste) for satellite acquisition.
If I were to fit a GPS, do I intrinsicially get flight log data somehow (like the stuff you can upload/sync to airdata) or am I a little spoilt by my DJI drones in that regard?
Any recommendations for an (in-stock!) beeper?
Thanks in advance!
EDIT: Have noticed that I need to refit the O3 before I solder those props if I want the video cable to run under the stack
Get used to the stock issues lol its your welcoming gift to FPV… spares are always usful to have for most things if its cost effective to keep.
As for GPS it really depends on the application of use. if its a freestyle basher then you’ll probably just break it anyways. If its speed your going for then GPS is good for knowing how fast your quad is. and the GPS telemetry can be invaluable for finding a crashed quad if you can’t find it. speaking of not being able to find a crashed quad you might want to invest in a self powered buzzer
If you want to find your quad again after crashing then install one of these. They’re more important than a gps. I’d go as far as to say they’re as important as putting props on…
Haha, thanks Deano. I guess I’ll make some more room in the cupboard for spares then.
Regarding buzzer, think I may have got terminology wrong (“beeper” in question 4). Any in-stock recommendations on that? I assume I could get a buzzer that a) goes off when battery disconnects, and b) if configured in betaflight correctly would be activatable by controller. Don’t know if that’s the case for all buzzers or if there is terminology to watch for when looking for a buzzer?
Get the vifly one linked above. It works great and in addition to doing all that you list also can power your gps independently without plugging your battery in so you can get a GPS lock without wasting main battery, etc.
Wicked, thanks Yith. Sounds like my gut feel on GPS and Motor count was about right. I do want to some 7" cruising one day and for that, definitely will get GPS, but like you say, while I’m learning I don’t intend to go far so hopefully choosing the right places to fly and making sure I have a decent buzzer will suffice.
Airdata is definitely in the “nice to have” category so if it’s a faff I’ll probably skip it and look at it again in a later build / as an upgrade.
Wasn’t aware the term “blackbox” was used for drones, I’m assuming that’s either an FC feature or separate module? Will do some research now I know what to look for, thanks!
Get rid of those plastic covers over the motor wires. They can shatter in a crash and cut the wires. They were a bad idea and have pretty much stopped being used.
Instead wrap the wires to the arms with cloth tape. Eg.
Correct, both. Most FCs have a bit of memory for this purpose. Some can take SD cards. And there are separate modules you can plug in which have an SD card slot.
Those plastic covers aren’t rigid if that makes any difference? (i.e. I wouldn’t expect them to shatter, they’re very flexible) though they came with the frame so have ordered the fabric tape suggested as I’m sure I’ll use it at some stage.
Oh, one more question (to anyone, doesn’t have to be you); where are people sourcing battery pads? The FlyFish one that came with frame looks useless! Probably same question regarding a replacement battery strap as I don’t know how good those FlyFish ones will be either.
Ah yes, that battery pad was the same one RestlessZombie recommended to me and I’d forgotten the name of. Found in stock and ordered (along with the recommended buzzer and a small selection of M10 GPS chips I may try out…)
Will do some research and see if I can find a battery strap recommendation; can see plenty in stock but hard to tell from pics/reseller descriptions whether they’re any good.
Again, thanks much. When I make it to a meetup you’re at, point yourselves out to me so I can feed you all beer or something!
I had GPS on mine and took it off as I was looking for a the cause of vibrations on mine and that was a likely source. I think it flies better without it and as mentioned it not really needed unless your doing mountain surfing or chasing speed records here (You know who you are )
As for the Buzzer you can easily pick them up off Amazon Link They’re a little more the an RC store site but they’ll rarely run out of stock. This is the model I have and comes with the 3 wire connector to solder to the FC board which will give you buzzer from remote control, activates on crash and battery disconnection, etc. Its fits behind the camera on that frame and you can deactivate it without the button if you put it somewhere you can’t access like i did.
Battery Pad, I agree with getting some Ummagrip and cutting to size, the one that comes with the frame is not very secure so you’re better to avoid using it all.
Battery straps that come with it are great but you should use two of the longer ones and they only provide one in the frame box. Get ones that have a bit of rubber in the strap to secure the battery or like mine, have more of the grip material like the Ummagrip pad. Hobbyrc’s own kelvar branded ones are great and cheap.
Notes:
XT60 connector - The one supplied in the frame box is hard to work with and has to be soldered at perfect length to screw in place. I would buy some separately and just pass the cable through the hole. (see pics) Doing this you’ll need some spacers which i cut from the tpu standoff tops that comes with it. (you get 4 with it so cut two down a little shorter)
Capacitor - fitting the capacitor in this frame is a little annoying as there isn’t much room between the ESC Battery connectors and O3 unit so add a little wire to the capacitor and run that under the ESC to the front where you can cable tie the capacitor there. Remember there is a positive and negative side to the capacitor so use different colours if you can.
I used the plastic cable covers too, just used some tape over the likely prop strike area.
My 2p worth. Late to the party … but I have just gone through the beginner stage.
Buzzer, Buzzer, Buzzer. Get one that is connected to the flight controller and has a stand alone battery. That way it not possible to forget to turn it on.
Any battery strap will work. Very occasionally a battery get ejected but with 6s - you will see it. Once you find you drone. Did I mention buzzer ?
GPS is such good value. For 10 quid and some soldering. You get air-data, easy to find your drone - easy to go back to where you drone landed if something fell off. Easy to replay a flight. My Flight Controller can be power USB-C to get a satellite lock without power the video transmission. I found GPS lock (after the initial one to down load the adjustment file) to be quick. A beginner may not be going far but data is useful.
If I were to fit a GPS, do I intrinsicially get flight log data somehow
More useful to replay a flight video, via DJI goggles - showing GPS Location, :-
Wicked, and extra thanks for the close up shots. Definitely going to look at running power down the CF plates now I see how you’ve got it. Hadn’t got as far as trying to squeeze in the capacitor yet but good thinking running the extra lines to get it out front - does that have any affect of on capacitor efficiency having the extra run from ESC to front? (electronics rookie question)
I did manage to fix my slight snafu with the XT60 frame connector but yeh, it leaves very little wiggle room so I think I need to grab a bag of spare connectors and do as you have there.
I also happen to know I need to be careful about zip tying around the O3 SD card slot.
That’s definitely the consensus of this thread I think! Don’t worry everyone, it’s in the mail (I even grabbed a spare - along with way too many GPS modules but I’m curious and wanted room to err!)
I think I picked up 8 props on my initial order but I didn’t want to get a gazillion of the same type, wanted to get 8 of a variety of different props as they come into stock to see if I can feel any difference and then hopefully settle on a set I like and order a bunch.