Looking good so far, 1Hr 26min to go…
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“anyone wants these, drop me a message”
and as they are from Thingiverse, just cover post and packaging.
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If no one else wants them @Njoro I’ll take them off your hands. I’m sure I’ll buy more Airtags in the future.
Tagging the @group-ios user group in case anyone else wants them first 
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@PingSpike since no one else wants them, PM your address and I’ll post them out to you.
I’d be interested in your thoughts on the ‘maiden print’ quality, bearing in mind It’s off a quick Printer setup.
@PingSpike posted, first class…
Very hard to see the quality of the prints due to the colour. I do see a couple of “snots” these can easily be rectified through an alteration to the slicer settings.
See here
I see you are printing with a brim around the print.
This is actually a waste of filament.
You should have a setting to to tell the printer to perform an initial “wipe”. The idea behind the wipe is to remove any or excess filament from that nozzle before printing starts.
I don’t know what infill pattern or the % of infill you are using, but 20% is usually enough.
The more infill you use, the more brittle the print will become (PLA) due to the ability or inability of the finished print to flex. It’s a total misconception the more infill the better the print. It all depends upon the material you are printing with and also what the finished item will be used for.
The best way to test this is to print several “prints” with different infill %, just a rectangular length of print with varying infill % per print.
(This can actually be achieved with multiple prints on the same print bed using different settings for each “print”)
When you have done this try snapping them. This will give you a very good idea as to how much infill you require per type of filament.
Google is your best friend here.
Read lots and lots and practice even more.
You will then find the “sweet spot” for your printer.
The reason I say “your printer” is due to the fact of variance through mass production. Bed and hot end thermistor accuracy.
3’c can be the difference between a very good and a poor print.
Just my 2 pence worth.
Hope this helps.
@speatuk, Please post pictures of your prints so others can see what you mean…
Useful info this. I’ve spent the weekend doing test prints with varied results.
It’s a steep learning curve and one that’s full of conflicting information.
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The only real problem with this print is the stringing.
This was actually my very first print.
The next shows the “snots” or blobs.
These are due to incorrect retraction settings.
The printer is staying in the same position for too long and not retracting the filament. So you increase retraction or increase print speed.
Same effect
The next shows stringing and incorrect support or support placement.
All these can be rectified by fine tuning
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It is @Howard78
This is why you have to take a bit from here and take a bit from there and fine tune YOUR printer to do what you want it to.
Some are happy with the odd blemish, I’m not.
Each to your own though. This is the same as the type of printer/car you buy.
Sorry just add
I have different nozzles for mine and depending on what I am printing and the use of the item when printed, depends upon the nozzle size.
It’s a minefield.
As I stated about, Google is your friend.
It’s all trial and error.
Also which slicer software are you using?
Cura Ultimaker is the dogs
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In the second picture, the “rounded” part has a slight over extrusion, this is due to the temperature being to high. when you have sliced the file, go to layers and see which layer the print starts to become narrower, then reduce the temperature at the layer, this will prevent this. I’m only talking 5-10’c.It is I’m afraid printer specific, but if this not your first printer you should have a better knowledge of how things work.
That’s what I’m using mate.
I’ve lots of accessories as I’m sure you probably guessed. Very much a case of all the gear and no idea right now.
The quality of prints has improved massively with pla, however I’m now playing with tpu so I can print a mount for my camera for the Nazgul.
Again a few fails but now started on a 6 hour print which has supports (seems that’s where I’d gone wrong before )
failed attempt
“Eventually it will all fall into place”, I’m still learning, otherwise I’d get bored…lol
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you are a star Steve!! thank you
everyday is a school day
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Reflected light, you’re reading too much where there’s nothing…lol