The only thing I will say about it is it doesn’t ‘stick’ in the sense that sticky tape does so I still had to cable tie to fully secure if that makes sense lol
That will do. As long as it transfers the heat and doesn’t short the electrics
You had to cable tie the thermal pads wow. Well will keep a hold of the VTX for now and sure can mount it somewhere. Very large frame (wanted a big open one for first build so have space)
In more positive news… See T200 thread lol
@GunjaFPV vtx’s can overheat sometimes and reduce power output. Airflow and good heatsinks stop this
Will look to mount to the frame direct using some.of that thermal padding then. Assume that helps a lot. So not being directly above the ESC and FC in a 3 way stack is actually better for it all then. Assume the FC and ESCs get warm.
On a side note… how cool are these little bell motors. Never played with one before haha. You put a screw in the top as well as the nut then? It comes with one!
If it will fit, its ok. There is lots of airflow from the props.
Can’t wait to get the frame and FC/ESC stack! Just checked the tracking and at local delivery, although with Hermes, which means the frames and FC/ESC going to be kicked onto the roof or into next doors garden. DAMMIT!
He knows!
Well it stated it would be delivered between 10:00 and 12:00. Just got notified at 13:35 that it’s been delivered. Good old Hermes… Wonder where I’ll find that!
In other news unmanned tech have accepted a return for the Nano TX Module and I’ve ordered the right one, hopefully with me tomorrow…
Haha! I had a Hermes delivery go to …1DX instead of …1NX. Turns out the guy at the same house number is the one on that street who is always home and just takes everyone’s deliveries without question. Fortunately it was only quarter of a mile away; it could have been a lot worse.
Read that completely wrong thinking it was gunja99 saying he had found his parts
Haha well guys I did secretly divert it this AM to local convenience store, thanks premiere and just got it. 2 frames FC and 4in1 ESC turned up…
Now what… Lol
Build time!
Plug the fc in via usb into betaflight to make sure it works before soldering. Else they may not refund you if its DOA
Was going to. Do I need to DC the ESC when doing that as it’s a combo stack?
Doesn’t really matter. The esc needs a lipo voltage anyway
Ok there’s no way I am soldering this until I’ve had a load of goes on my practice board… Omg… It’s tiny the soldering points for the vtx cam etc!
They are the easy ones. I bought some reading glasses to help.
The big lipo power pads can be a bitch. Use flux and a big tip hotter than the sun
Thats what you bought the practice boards for lol just remember to tin the pads and wires first then it’s fairly easy once you get the technique As Karl says it’s the big ass power pads and xt60 pig tail that are the real bastard
lol
As others have said, the big pads are a real pain, especially the ground (negative/0v for those weirdos ) because you have the large ground plane acting as a fantastic heatsink. For those, a decent-sized chisel tip is best, plenty of good rosin-cored leaded solder (none of that lead-free rubbish), and a flux pen or paste.
When tinning your tip, don’t forget to wipe off the excess - it should be shiny and smooth, not coated in gobs of brown flux and solder.
Flux the pad and the wire, and give them a liberal gob of solder. Then get some heat into both parts, bring them together and splurge in some more solder. Don’t breathe the fumes and you’re golden!
Also it pays to plan out your next batch of wires, plan the route and the length, thread the heat shrink on first (I can’t count the number of times I have soldered a lead and then looked down at the neatly cut heat shrink tubing sitting on the bench).
As for the smaller leads and components, a narrower chisel tip and thin solder will be your friends. Again be liberal with the flux, and of you think a joint looks rubbish, desolder, clean it up with a solder sucker and/or desoldering braid, and start again. High frequency vibrations will set a dry joint loose in no time. Same goes for flying components like electrolytic capacitors, fasten them down to something with heat shrink, hot glue, electrician’s tape, or something like that.
BigClive on YouTube has some good videos on soldering these sorts of things. Dave Jones of EEVBlog does too, although his tend to be for smaller PCB components.