I have ordered some parts from Banggood for the Disco modification to enable a more hands on FPV.
The parts are…
1000TVL CCD camera
5.8GHz VTX
I already have 3 cell 3Ah Lipo.
I may fit my DJI OcuSnc at some time too.
I’m in the process of hooking up my Frsky X8R and Taranis X9D Plus. I’ve got the servos working, and flight mode switch.
Blimey 
Looking forward to pics of the mods!! 
@Njoro
Looking forward to see to you mods.
Should this thread be the official disco mods thread or would you prefer to keep it clear for your own mods?
My multistar battery arriving Tuesday
I think it’s a good idea to make it an official Disco Mods thread for future research, feel free to start you battery mod Callum.
Here we go, the first thing I had to do is setup my Frsky X8R RX for S-BUS 16 channels with no telemetry.
The reason I did this is, I don’t know wheather the 2.4GHz down link from the RX to the TX will interfere with the Disco 2.4GHz. I’m going to hazard a guess that it won’t, the reason being (a) the Taranis 2.4GHz has to be turned on first before the RC RX then when the Disco is turned on it becomes awere of all the 2.4G in the vicinity and should skip the RC TX which it does.
The next window allows you to map all your channels and switches.
So far I’ve got all the channels mapped, I had to setup the TX in normal airplane configuration and not Delta. The mixing is done by the Disco. I have the momentary switch on the TX mapped for takeoff and other switches for RTH and Flight mode selection. I’m going to be cautious with this going forward. I’ll update as I learn, I haven’t found much or good information on how best to do this.
Am I right in thinking with an external TX its going to bypass the chuck and behave in full manual? No autopilot to prevent stalls, self levelling and pitch and roll limits?
From what I’ve seen on YouTube you get RC TX flight with chuck assistance with limited roll and pitch, and fully manual without gyros.
Full manual flight shouldn’t be an issue for experienced flyer though.
Full manual looks pretty awesome on it. Well beyond my skill set though.
Really looking forward to see what it can do.
My goals will be extended flight time and control by 3G/4G network.
My first intention is to fly the Disco with my DJI RE Hence the 5.8G VTX with the 1000TVL camera which gives a great picture. Which also mean that I can record at 1080p without the huge lag associated with it. I’m not familiar with flying on 3/4G as am from the old school and an old f…rt now, but I also have the choice of TBS cross fire if I buy another TX.
I’m a complete and utter muppet!!
Didn’t think to mark the good and bad one after that photo.
You’d think the old one would have a few scars after landings. NOPE
Had to open them up to find the bad one.
Not having a good day lol
That’s the 3D video setup for Disco I think 
Noooooo!!! Don’t go giving him ideas!!! 
All I’ll say is 
While I’m waiting for parts to arrive for my mod, I’ve had a little time to design an anti-vibration mount for my spare mobius cameras. This is the bottom mount which will be glued to the Disco’s top cover.
The top
Im working on something a little more scrap heap challenge.
Adding what I thought was a UV filter to front using a hydraulic wiper seal.
Turns out it’s a 1A skylight filter, not got a clue if that’s good or bad.
Idea is to keep cold air off lens and add a bit of impact protection.
From what I’ve gathered the issue with temperature is cold air entering between the camera housing and the light sensor.
The area to look at is where the wires exist the housing also there maybe poor thermo conduction behind the light sensor. I’ve found this out via videos on the Parrot Bebop which has virtually the same camera and setup.
I’ve had my “chuck” out and consequently found that it is sealed all around the camera housing and it looks like Curry’s sold me a refurbished unit.
Maybe Parrot was trying to off load these on the cheap.
I’ve watched a few of those videos.
I’m not convinced on a lot of it. For me the fact focus is alright in the first minute of flight suggests air is having a cooling effect as it passes over lens and barrel.
Blocking air passing the lens should create static air inside the hood which might allow the camera body and lens to get closer in temperature to the sensor.
We shall see though. I took the easiest option first. Next would be disassembly of chuck to apply thermal paste to back of sensor.
I’m wondering if these with security sticker and white firmware stickers truly are refurbs.
Could be other explanations.
