anyone know a good tiny whoop that has crossifre im comfortable with it now and not to bothered about getting frysky
There’s rtf’s on the tbs website. But any whoop should have a spare uart to wire in a nano
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I really am back now…
I actually re soldered drone #2 last night, and have worked out where I’m going to connect everything, other than the GPS.
As I have a split cam there is no need for gopro, insta 360, blaaa, so I have room on the top front. Would people recommend putting the GPS there above the camera?
Also second question on GPS, there is a SCL and SDA wires on the GPS and the FC, does that give me compass? And if so do I swap em like RX/TX or they direct wire?
I have needed to order some more wire (as the way things are it’s not long enough), but I am hoping to be back in the air within 2 - 3 weeks! Hope we can meet up at a bando/towers/whatever soon! Also I’m actually working in the cotsworlds every fortnite and staying two nights, so in the summer I could even meet up somewhere there in an evening (that’s future talk yet!)
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Great to see you back!
It may be a compass, yes. Check the manufacturer’s docs.
No you dont swap those. They’re i2c, which is a master/slave style comms link. Half duplex.
Scl is clock, sda is data.
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Only risk there is that it may be more likely to be damaged in an impact. The antennas are apparently probe to hairline cracks. I’ve not personally noticed it.
I’ve followed Bardwell’s advice and mounted mine on a rear arm.
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Cheers for that R.
Rear arm… hmmm. I will be crashing… a lot, was interferance was looking to avoid and near motor wires… Mind sharing a photo?
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Cheers. I’ve decided not to put it there, but given me some ideas. I’m sure it’ll be protected on top by the battery, so… I will cable tie it on with a mount though!
I still love that you 3d printed sides to protect the stack, lol!!
Made massive progress yesterday. I re did all the motor wires as for some reason I did them far too long, and designed and made a “cage” to mount the VTX on the back… Photo incoming…
Well they were on thingiverse for my rather old frame, so why not!
I did have to move the usb port hole though.
Looks great! 
Well progress has been immence… It’s nearly “physically” done, just software to setup… So aew questions guys if I may…
I’ve been watching Bardwell again, and he’s made some BLHeli changes here:
Specifically with the PWM Frequency (48 to 24kHz), and Motor timing. Now I don’t have the same ESC (Mambo Pro 50 4 in 1 I got), so should i be doing this? ALso earlier in the same video he turned something down from 8k to 4k in Betaflight, the PID loop timing maybe? SHould I be doing this? I got a 722 APP Stack.
Thanks all and it’ll be flyable tomorrow I reckon (not that the weather will allow!)
My esc spazzed out on 48khz on 6s, but was ok on 4s 
24khz was ok for both
It doesn’t really matter, but a lower value will have less noise I guess. 4k/4k is good (gyro / pid)
Cheers mate. Cant wait to fly again with you all!!! So excited again, like the first time… lol
I’m going 4S for now (though it is 6S capable). Cant wait to get it in air. All smoke tests, etc, etc have past motors been reversed (how I manage to wire all 4 backwards?!) lol. Going to update BF later, and off we go
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Know what you mean. Really looking forward to better weather. Going stir crazy myself!
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Yeah. Mine (Mamba F722) defaulted to 8k/8k but running the ‘tasks’ command in the CLI showed that was maxing out the processor a bit with the motors runnning so I dropped it to 4k/4k to give it some headroom and it all seems fine.
I can’t seem to adjust the gyro stuck on 8 greyed out… Weird
Gyro update frequency might be fixed.
To be honest it’s the PID loop schedule that affects the amount of computation the FC is doing, not necessarily the refresh rate for the gyro. Also, I think if you drop the PID loop to 4k, then you’re also supposed to change the ESC protocol from DSHOT600 to DSHOT300, but someone more knowledgeable than me can prob confirm that.
Yeah that right 4k pid loop is dshot 300 but if u can do 8k dont bother going lower as usualy u change the gyro and pid frequency togethet.
Leave ur pid and gyro at 8k the mamba stack u have can do that easily. I have the same. Also in blheli ur pwm frquency both low and high should be around 24 thats a good starting point. Also if u go the lastest blheli 32 version which is 8.3.3 i think (can only be downloaded from github its a pre release) there is a by pwm option which will adjust depending on the motor rpm automaticaly which gives you the most efficient motor. Bardwell just posted a vid on it.
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