That’s a fail, I reckon. That large comb suggests that’s a cockerel. 
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A post was merged into an existing topic: MotoGP
Hey @Cedric, @Steviegeek, or anyone willing to take a look who might have an idea.
Please could I borrow your experience as I feel like I’m maybe looking in the wrong place for a fix and am not sure what I should be checking.
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I initially repaired and reattached a motor that had come loose during flight
All props spun on start up, but when attempting to hover it would diagonally flip towards the arm with the reattached motor, suggesting the others were pulling up adequately but it wasn’t. -
I replaced the damaged motor with a new one and had the same issue.
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I used a multimeter to check for continuity between positive pad and motor pads, negative pad and motor pads, with all the motors removed, and found none.
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I removed the heatsink from the ESC for inspection and cannot see any damage.
Does it sound like I missed something and should be looking at the say flight controller or elsewhere, should I repeat one of the steps. Does it sound like the issue is not with the ESC?
I suppose testing with another flight controller and set of motors could be a good reducer and I will do, but would appreciate any input if something jumps out to you.
[motor 1]
Thank you.
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Did you double check the motor direction on that motor. It is quite possible that it was spinning the wrong way.
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Oh my word, I bet you could be right. Had made an assumption which is never a good idea, and the symptoms check out.
That would hurt a little but I’m happy if it’s the issue, give half an hour to put back together.
Thank you for the suggestion!
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On a side note - you really want to give more heat/flux when tinning pads / soldering cables onto them. Bardwell did a good soldering tutorial.
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Oh ok I will heat the soldering iron more, my pops is an electrical engineer and does say the same thing. I know that I only just touch the limits of what’s needed as I really don’t like to over heat the components, and as long as the weld is strong and there are no shorts I’m happy.
I use far too much flux I think. The last pictures are after using alcohol to clean the board so not very representative. But when the iron is not that hot it can only flow so much.
I have watched Joshes video and arrogantly felt it a bit below my level but I will give a rewatch and go back to school, as that never hurts.
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Brother you were spot on, thanks so much for your clear headed suggestion. You saved me money and a colour scheme.
Please let me buy you a drink at the next big meet, that I am eagerly looking forward to riding down to.
Much love.
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Happy to help.
Good job i don’t like champagne or I’d be asking for a glass of Armand de Brignac 
no need for the drink.
Looking forward to the Big Meet 2026 aswell.
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“Free shipping” I should blooming hope so.
Yes me too, was sad to have missed this year.
Thanks again.
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– now the tuning phase can begin 
Fantastic, congrats!
Tuning phase, oh right no default profile for that tank on betaflight 
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HDZero Freestyle v2 install, on the Grinderino.
It’s a really tight sqeeze for this frame..
I could not fit in the stand alone beeper, so instead ended up trimming the plug from a basic buzzer and cramming the leads down the side of the FC with it protrutding from the frame.
This one seems to chirp rather than beep, so Geeko(the Grinderino)'s new nickname is Cricket. 
I will have to reorganise something because at the moment I have the capacitor strapped and then stuck to the arm with rubber bands and foam tape, the leads are double insulated in that heat shrink that comes with the glue inside just to lock everything in place.
It’s aight (not really) for now, but I will probably get some smaller capacitors that I can run in parallel for the same capacitance but with a size profile that can slot in behind the camera. Similar to how I did it on the Volodor after adding the OpenIPC VTX, which caused a similar issue with space.
I love how it is coming along, it flies like a proper little 5".. but I have not weighed it yet, and I’m not sure I want to. 
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It is a tight fit – good job 
Another common approach you will find is to turn the ESC around. So that the battery pads are at the front - and the cap is now very close to the pads (a cap is more efficient the closer it is to the pads)
There is a very good build video of the ERA frame - another very compact frame - done by people that did obviously spend quite some time thinking about those problems. I learned a lot watching it - highly recommended
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Oh thank you that is a wonderful recommendation, much appreciated!
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The maiden flights of the X-Class went extremely well today - I need to sort out an action cam mount (I used the HDZero low latency mode - which is 540p… so not looking too good 
)
Looks like I got the initial filtering/pid spot on so already starting upping the gains to see what it can do
the power/torque/inertia is humbling
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Nice one Cedric 
look forward to the videos
I had an X-class for a short while, didn’t do a lot with it though 
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Just purchased a 04 lite for one of my micros, it has a naked vista in at the mo so should also save me a bit of weigh..
Loving the micros at the mo as you can throw goggles controller and everything else in a small case and fly almost anywhere. Just need a few more 1S batteries but they seem to be sold out everywhere
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