If he loses an AOS with O3 on on the maiden, I’ll kill him… Who loses their first homebuilt drone after < 10 flights seriously…
Hope you’ve had some Sim time, they VERY different from the DJI ones mate… And no “panic” button like the DJI FPV/Avata (I assume the avata has the same being the same controller)
If there is one man in this forum, it will be me. Just hope I get a badge for it
TBH it was the action cam I was gutted about losing more than the drone. Just the expense and time. Rebuilt the same quad after that experience, and touch wood still here (well most of it, haha)
About 4 minutes in Virtual Flight (or whatever that was from DJI), an hour in Velocidrone, and about 4 hours so far in Liftoff. I get where your coming from but I’m more of a ‘make it up as you go along’ and ‘you can’t make omelettes without trashing half a grand’s worth of drone’ kind of guy.
Oh it’s worth it. I didn’t give up, and it’s the flying I love… Will have an O3 before long myself, can’t wait
I get that 100%
I’ll second that.
I have several different RCinPower motors (from YourFPV). I’m currently building a Nanofly16 clone based on the 1002 14000kv motors, a 2S Nanofly16 without the drawbacks of the original 1S version.
Also sat on a set of 1202.5’s and 1207’s for other builds.
Put GPS and a very LOUD buzzer on it
Dare I say, INAV and RTH ???
This seems like it ticks the boxes. Yay or nay?
Thanks Steve. I agree. Would this suffice? M180 or M220
Personally these have good reputaions, also it’s need to have a built in compass (magnetometer)
Thanks Steve. He states that the BEC needs to provide a minimum of 2 amps at 8v.
The ESC + FC that I’ve found (above) shows this in the spec:
- BEC 3.3V: 0.5A
- BEC 5V: 3A
- BEC 9V: 3A
I take it this means that it delivers 3 amps above 5v so will be fine for powering the O3?
Use the 9v 3A one
Yeah that has 3 different BECs Chris and the 9V will supply 3A max so should easily supply the 2A constant you will need fir the O3 unit
OK, thanks Steve(s)
I’ll buy that ESC + FC then, it’s in stock, plus it has built in WiFi for Speedybee.
I have just had a thought about your frame Chris. You might find you have props in the camera view as the O3 has a really wide fov. If you want to do cinematic flights using the O3 onboard recording that might be an issue?
He’s got his DJI’s for that
It’s a really expensive stack. Be very careful soldering it. When I started I was already quite experienced with soldering, but I still managed to trash several cheap stacks.
- If completely inexperienced with soldering get a practice board.
- Get a decent temperature controlled soldering iron with several tips. You’ll need a big one for the battery connection and fine tip for the other pads.
- Leaded solder is easier to use than lead free.
- Flux is essential.
- Cover the rest of the board when soldering to a pad to prevent splats. I use kapton tape for this. Its useful for other stuff as well. JB loves the stuff.
- do a visual inspection before applying power
- use a multimeter before applying power
- use a smoke stopper for first turn on
- wire bits up one by one and check they work before moving on… don’t wire the whole quad before powering on for the first time
Two bardwell videos that are essential watching: