Tiny whoop?

#1

Hey all, thanks for the advice about controller. Having got to the point where I’ve switched to rate and 45 degrees in velocidrone (and even know now what those things mean!! ) I’m wanting to graduate to a tiny whoop so I can crash without killing a sheep…

Any advice as to what’s good? Eachine? Mobula? And I’m thinking I should immediately move to fat shark but again…which ones?

Your help much appreciated…

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#2

Tiny whoops are most commonly flown in angle mode rather than rate mode.

If your flying a sim in rate mode just go direct to 5” whoops are for winter really

#3

Whoops are great fun. I did sims in rate, now flying a whoop in rate. They take lots of crashes. Real good fun. I have a snapper 6. Its only a 1s, and a 2s may be better. People recommend the mobula 7. I got a snapper 6 as it has aluminium prop guards.

The goggles are an investment not to skimp on. They should last a long time so worth spending money on. I think most people like fatsharks. Its the market leader. I have a skyzone one. I am used to it so like it. If you can, meet up with people with goggles to try them. Its personal preference really. The fatsharks are upgradeable to a degree with add on receiver modules.

#4

Thanks for the vote of confidence!!

#5

I think I’ll do that. Seems to be general agreement on that. I’m still not sure if I need to go via a whoop though…tempted to go straight to 5"…

#6

You should be ok. I’m doing a whoop cos I’m kak at flying and nervy.

#7

@notveryprettyboy your issue is confidence you can do it. You showed that with your whoop. Stop beating yourself up!

@tom.at.rye just make the jump you won’t regret it. If at all possible find some local fliers and ask to try there Google’s. Everyone’s face is different and if you don’t fit fatsharks then you will want to go with something else.

Also if you wear glasses box goggles might be the way to go so you can wear them (diopters are available for fatshark but can be expensive)

Hope that helps

#8

Good point! I do wear glasses and I was wondering about that. I use reading glasses with my dji goggles, which works fine, so maybe that’s my solution. Ya don’t look quite as cool wearing box goggles though…!

#9

I’ve got a betafpv 75s.

It’s not brushless but great for honing your skills indoors on rainy days.

Have to agree that you might as well jump straight into 5" but whoops do have there place for a bit of fun in the house.

I’ve got Aomway comander V1 goggles. Suit me well. V2 are out and supposed to be great.

You can also get diopter lenses for either to suit your prescription.

#10

They work with glasses @callum?

#11

I don’t wear glasses mate but I’ve seen diopter lenses for sale that you use instead of your glasses.

Not sure how well they work though.

Actually looks like they only come in two varieties, -2 and -4 so might not be much use

#12

Personally if your just starting out now is be looking at a 3" quad, sub 250g so your exempt from the regulations coming in November.

The Diatone R349 is a good start, can be run on 3s or 4s or if you fancy a challenge the tyro79 can be had for about 70 quid but would require assembly.

Which is good in a way as you will inevitably crash and need to repair it.

#13

Thanks for the advice. I’m curious, how big a quad do you have to get before you can stick a go pro on top of it?

#14

Your can do it with some 3" builds but the options are limited. An alternative is to use a split camera like the runcam split or caddx turtle.

They act as your fpv camera and also record 1080p footage in the background. There is a trade-off though and that is slightly higher latency which isn’t noticeable unless your racing.

#15

That sounds like a good idea and a nIce compromise. Does the latency get you in trouble at all? Presumably we’re taking milliseconds? And could you build that into the tyro you were talking about?

#16

Its around 40ms latency which is perfectly fine for freestyle/cruising, but racing where reaction time is key it can be an issue.

The tyro79 is too compact for a split camera as it requires an additional PCB (for recording and sdcard)

If your happy to build your own there are plenty of options available, alternatively quite a few manufacturers are releasing bind and fly 3" HD quads, so all you would need is a compatible transmitter and some FPV goggles. The Diatone R349 HD is around £150 and pretty good value when you consider the Caddx Turtle V2 is £50 alone.

When it comes to those, your options are either keep it sweet and simple with something like the flysky fs-i6 which is around £50 quid, fine for a beginner but you’ll soon want to replace it, or you can spend around £130 and get the FrSky Taranis QX7 which will last you for as long as your in the hobby, there are higher options but your talking £200+ then.

As for FPV goggles, by all means FatShark are on the high end of the market and the prices reflect that, I would suggest getting something cheaper to start with and upgrade as and when you feel the need.

Some possible starter goggles I would suggest are the Eachine EV800 (£40) the Eachine EV100 (£80), the Aomway Commander V1 or Skyzone Sky02S (~£200) and then of course you get the FatShark models like the Dominator HD3 (~£300) or the Dominator HDO (~£400).

Bare in mind for both of the FatShark goggles you will also need to buy a receiver module which is an additional cost of approx £60-£100.

#17

Fully comprehensive! I’ve already got the controller thanks to advice I got here (needed for practice on the sim) so I’ll go over your advice with a banggood catalogue and get myself set up! Thanks for the time you spent putting that post together.

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#18

I’m ok. I’m happy learning at my own pace. :ok_hand:

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#19

Ok @MadMossy, only gone and done it. Lots of packages will be arriving shortly no doubt!

Last question, (for now! ) I’ve bought batteries (see below) but can’t figure out which charger works on them…any clue?

#20

Which frame/quad did you go for in the end?

Charger wise, its one of those things people tend to skimp on, but a cheap charger could mean the difference between your house staying upright or a pile of ash.

SkyRC IMAX B6 tends to be the go to budget charger (about 30-40 quid, you will likely need to buy additional leads to connect up XT60/XT30 batteries though.

Then theres the more premium side of things like the ISDT or SkyRC D100 AC chargers which are around 80-110 quid, they tend to have multiple channels so they can charge more things at the same time.

I have the ISDT D2, but if I were to buy again now I’d probably be looking at the SkyRC Q200 which can take both AC or DC inputs.

As a beginner though, you can’t really go wrong with any of the SkyRC or ISDT chargers they are all great.