Vista issue

Well they have got back to me and asked for more info as to the problem, I just played dumb and said Iv built a number of quads and never had a problem with any of the Vista’s :lying_face:

Then outlined the issue …

Nice job lol Hopefully they will get back to you with some good news :crossed_fingers:t2:

Removing the diode is only an option if you are stuck with the damaged vista

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Yeah will have to see how I go, I still have a couple of miner things I need to sort out anyhow as the screws that came with my motors aren’t long enough :man_facepalming:t4:

Just been looking round but everything is sold out, as I wanted a couple of 6s batters for the Nazgul and antennas. Ill drop them on another thread as I would like to ask what people would advice weight vs power ratio …

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Welcome to the extremely frustrating hobby that is FPV lol

I have found someone on flea bay selling batteries :+1:t4:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/hobbybitzcouk?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

Hopefully none of them read the comments in here :sweat_smile: fingers :crossed_fingers:

Seems expensive to me…

I think everything has gone up :worried:

I wont be buying off flea bay anyhow been stung a couple of time so I boycott the buggers :+1:t4:

With you on that one. Ebay are arseholes

Well just had this back from CADDX

Dear Nick

If you don’t change any settings, directly replace other vistas to work

The diode of this vista is faulty

You can use a multimeter to measure the resistance between Sbus to GND

Remove all cables from FC first

Usually the resistance is less than 5MΩ, if it is greater than 5, or Short circuit, the diode damaged

Diode damage is not a product quality problem

It may be caused by misoperation, high voltage, short circuit, crash

You can use a heat gun or pliers to remove the damaged diode

sbus will work again

However, it is recommended to send it back to the factory for repair first, and there will be no repair fee and return fee.

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They’re not saying in which direction to measure the resistance, it is a diode after all !
If it’s good you should get high resistance with leads on one way and low resistance with the leads swapped at the diode ends.
If it’s shot then you’ll get low resistance in both lead positions,
If it’s high resistance in both lead positions then it’s not doing anything and SBUS should work

If your test meter is any good it should have a diode test position which is much better, it will indicate the voltage drop, between 0.3v to 0.7v (depends on type of diode) when the +ve (RED) test lead is on the diode end with the line/bar indication on the case. and nothing when leads swapped.

HTH Steve :smiley:

This may explain better…

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Sounds like they are offering free repair :thinking:

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so really, this is the best option :+1: :+1:

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I think what they are saying,it is a blocking diode and checking the resistance of the SBUS to ground

If it is good it should be less than 5MΩ but if open or short then the diode is damaged


@BigDog if you have a meter then its a simple check

and its best to send back for repair

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Couldn’t get a precise reading but it was fluctuating between 4 and 10 .
20211124_170934_2

Is that from the ground to the sbus?

it is :+1:t4:

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The diode is shorted to ground

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Knacked is the technical term i think
.lol


Packed and ready to go…

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