is this the mosfet then in the photo with the 50v on it
Ummm no. That’s a capacitor. Take it off for now. You don’t really need it.
does anyone now why i can find a mosfet 50 v like the one in the photo please and thank you if u do ok
Big-D
ok thank you and do u now any way i can get one
This was the advice further up. 
If you do get one - it’s a 470μF (Microfarad) 50v one on there.
i have to take it off now it has a hole burn in to it so do u think the boards will light up when i unsolder it tomorrow
just asking
I can only refer you to what @notveryprettyboy has said on the technical side - I was just pointing out that what you were highlighting in the photos is a capacitor of that 470μF (Microfarad) 50v spec.
ok thank you
It’s possible but unlikely that it will power your drone. It looks from the photos like the capacitor has shorted on the frame and taken the 5v bec out in the process. This is why the flight controller isn’t working anymore.
Capacitor can be purchased here
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i rebuild the drone and now i get the light when i plug in the battery and i blind the dji controller after i blind the goggle with ther air unit and when i go in to the beta flight 4.2 i flash the board with the right file and after then im stick
Hi mate.
What are you stuck by? Are you getting an error?
It’s really hard to help without all the details of what’s happening.
Thanks
i have my dji controller blind to my dji air unit and my goggle and i can feel the motors when u plug in your battery moving for a split second on each of them can not see how to get it to work if the light is on do u think the board it ok and one of the photo it tell me the usb ports if fail to connect
Ok so first things first. Can you take a picture of each of the betaflight screens? Forget about blheli32 for now. Let’s get betaflight setup then worry about motor directions.
Ok looking at the screenshots I think you have killed your flight controller. You should have some uarts showing in the ports tab and you don’t!
yes that is what i was guess i did when i had the cracking noise a few day ago
done just order the replacement board hope be here in 3 to 5 days
I can appreciate the frustration you’re experiencing, but with such there also comes wisdom.
Looking at the pictures you posted a few days ago I’d like to make a suggestion with respect to your soldering.
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It looks like you might have used lead free solder (?). If so I would recommend you ditch it and get some decent 60/40 lead solder. The lead free stuff is a pain in the arse at the best of times.
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Ensure your iron is hot enough for the job and can sustain the heat delivery, this is especially important when soldering the battery connectors.
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If you can get hold of one a flux pen is invaluable for preparing the solder contact on the circuit board. It allows the solder to flow and cover the entire pad and helps to prevent the clumping and unwanted solder whiskers that can electrically short when the pads are close together.
Always pre-tin the pads on the circuit board, this will reduce the time needed to heat the joints when a fixing the wires.
When actually soldering you should heat up the joint prior to applying the solder so that it will flow over the surfaces. I’ve seen some people try and use solder like glue and that’s when bad things happen.
Hopefully, when your replacement board arrives, you’ll be whizzing around in full HD in no time.
Nidge