Hi mate, thanks for your message, so you think that would be better do you? So can you tell me why that is?
The guy at hobbyrc said my best option is to flash receiver as that is the cheaper component of the two?
Any further info you have that goes against this I’d be open to hearing.
Does it not matter then, if I am in the UK we can still use either firmware?
Thank you.
Hi Chris,
Personally, I would look into flashing the radio with the correct firmware that will work with the RX, as that will not require any soldering and like I said would allow you to use FCC mode
FFC turns your radio to full power, so there is less chance of losing connection and you will get better penetration
I am a bit of a tinker so that’s the approach I would take, I see you are new to drones so maybe flashing the receiver is the better option for you
FW-XM-XMP-2.1.2.zip (291.7 KB)
XM+170313.zip (157.2 KB)
The video above explains the process and the 2 zip files contain the new and old firmware versions of the receiver
What is the current firmware version of the TX radio? that’s the important bit as that you can read that but the receiver you cant (you will only know by flashing it)
This is worth watching as well about older firmware versions
Ok cheers mate, I hear what your saying, is there much difference then would you say between the two firmwares? Obviously you say FCC is better but will I notice it at all when flying? I am just learning as I go and the guy at hobbyrc said it better to mess / flash the cheaper component being the receiver so I thought that would be the best route. I guess hobbyrc should also be able to flash new firmware to the radio too shouldn’t they? If I was to ask them this and they say they could do you think that I should just do that? As like you say it would save me messing around soldering?
My radio has accst V2 EU LBT hobbyrc said.
Thanks
Just read the whole thread, and to be honest you just need to get in the air flying for now!
If I was closer I would come and help
Get Hobbyrc to flash the receiver, they sell them and reflash them to whatever firmware you like
You could also send the TX and get them to bind it
Hopefully, soon you will be flying, look forward to hearing about it
It is a massive learning curve 
Ok, so you think I should desolder the receiver then and perhaps try and send that off with my remote and see if they can flash receiver and then also bind for me so when it comes back all I have to do is solder the receiver back and get flying. That would be awesome and in theory sounds nice and easy and straight forward. I will try and get this done and I’ll let you guys know how I get on.
I appreciate your help none the less, even though you can’t help in person so thank you bud!
Also my next worry is, I could get my flywoo to connect to betaflight as it said it didn’t have the relevant software I needed that the auto detect suggested.
So any ideas on what to do there?
And what about the Goggles, I have farshark predators so is that straightforward to get them connected to my caddx vista on the drone?
Cheers
Not strictly true. The difference between a LBT radio and Non-LBT radio is the LBT aspect. If I load the EU LBT firmware into my 2012 (Pre LBT) Taranis the RF board still outputs the same power, as measured on my SHF power meter.
The same is true when I switch between the two standards on my multiprotocol TX16S.
I know this because I have too much time on my hands, and no social life of which to speak of, so I do lots of dumb things with bits of wire and electricity when I’m not supervised by a grownup.
Oh god… you have a mess…
Caddx vista is a DJI HD VTX. Fatshark predators are analog. They are completely incompatible.
You may be better replacing the entire drone or getting completely new goggles.
Luckily i don’t think you have a caddx vista though.
I don’t see one in your video.
Lets see some good photos to be sure.
If fpv flying isnt hard enough 
I know man lol its a real baptism of fire 
Yeah cheers @sirgunner you beat me to it! I just see that mine said that yeah. It was my mistake I must of just got confused. Sorry about that.
So should this be an easy enough thing to connect the two then?
Look at me getting ahead of myself here as if I have this all worked out.
I am just hoping once the receiver is flashed then that’s the hard part done but as I say betaflight seems like it might be an issue too, as was just wondering what people thought about the connecting of the goggles to the onboard camera.
Cheers everyone
If you want that solder practice board Christian just message me your details and Ill get it posted off to you this coming week 
@Yith I must of got confused my bad
Yeah should be fairly straight forwards with analogue you dont actually ‘connect’ or ‘bind’ your goggles. Your video transmitter on the quad just transmits on whichever frequency its set to and whatever power level its set to (this can be changed/adjusted if need be). You just have to set the receiver on your goggles to the correct frequency to match the output of your video transmitter
Yes please, thank you, I have just messaged you
Ok, I’m thinking I should try and get the two connected to check I can actually do it ready for when the receiver comes back.
So once the drone is on, I can just go flick through the channels on the goggles to hopefully find the one that matches my drone? And how do I know what channel my drone video transmitter is on?
What video transmitter (vtx) is in your quad? It varies from vtx to vtx but generally it will have normally 3 leds which will flash a particular pattern depending on the settings
Im not sure. There’s no led on my camera, is that where they would be? I have just tried powering up the drone and the goggles at the same time and not sure where to even start!
Do I need to do this through betaflight or not?
Or where does the vtx sit exactly?
