My winter project is to make a new plane.
I’m using the Freewing Lippisch P.15 Jet and fitting HDZero and Headtracking.
I also want to have a control console using the iNav OLED display, more on that later.
The actual Jet has been put away for xmas, but I managed to have a good look at it and my 3S batteries (which are what it is designed for) will fit giving plenty of room in the cockpit for the Headtracking servos.
There is a replacement cockpit STL on thingiverse for this plane and I’ve already checked it fits. I’ve done some mods to fit my requirements, More mods will follow.
I’m using the same headtracking system I had set up for the 3D printed plane I made last winter, but I think I’ll have to do some mods for the HDZero Nano V2 camera I have. That will be no issue.
I have a Race V2 and Matek F405 MTE flight controller mounted behind the camera.
The OLED display is in place and in the photos you can see my problem… it’s too close to the camera to be in focus. I had been expecting this problem for a while, though not right from the start of the planning stage.
I guess I need some sort of close-up lens just for the cockpit area? Does anyone on here know enough about optics to give me any suggestions?
My plan was to modify the iNav firmware to get a more interesting console display on there. I’ve looked at the code and that is completely within my capabilities, but the focus problem is something I need help with…
Then that’s the issue with using a camera that is fixed focus, I was going to say to adjust the lens on the runcam but then it would be out of focus for distance
I’m not hopeful, but it’s all I can think of that would be small enough to position where you need it in the cockpit. And a plastic one should be easy enough to shape to your needs.
There was a model P15 being flown with WREN gas turbine powering it. I believe it proved a bit of pig to get it to fly properly aerodynamic wise due to the smallish rudder…
Interesting jet aircraft these Germans came up with in WW2.
Well the bottom half would need to be ‘long sighted’ and the top half should be clear. Which is exactly how Bifocal Reading Glasses are constructed. I’d be tempted to cut a 8/12 mm (not sure of your camera) circle out of a cheap set, as they are only a tenner on Amazon.
I know this wouldn’t work with the HDZero at present, but this is a great usecase for switchable camera inputs, with one macro camera pointed at the OLED and a second distance camera for distance view. Having the headtracker set up to switch between the two depending on whether the head is tilted down or up would be possible.
If only there was a way to switch between 2 digital cameras…
