Steve aka Digidat does the best YT how to vids, it was a bit of a pain for me as I’m pretty crap at soldering and there ain’t much room in there. I used the smaller xt30 plugs as they are a lot smaller than the xt60’s in Steve’s vid as mine can be flush mounted. I buy my batteries and bits from Hobby King, I think they are in holland? You just have to make sure that the main battery has a tad more voltage than the aux battery’s otherwise the Dji batt will switch off. The Go 4 app will still show the correct voltage.
That is the battery clip adapter(was) dual lock, charger, LiHV batteries I use
I had the top battery clip adapter on my last drone, had good results,I had plenty of 18-19 odd mile round trips. This year I’ve gone direct mod that should give me a little bit more due to a much better amp/volt flow than just the slits touching the terminals on the top mounted one. I glued mine on as removing it a few times wears the slits and becomes a little lose. I also modified mine to sit upright so the battery can sit forward without covering the gps at the back.
They have made the copper strips a little longer so it sits more towards the front to be easier to plug a top mounted battery in without the battery sitting over the gps at the back, BUT I’m not sure it’s far enough as I’ve never tried their battery clip. If you mount the batteries on the side with a top clip, from my experience it would be a pain keeping the wires away from the props.
Rich, been reading up on it a little. Some people stating only 5-6 minutes extra battery life due to the added weight.
Flying at standard speed (22mph) uses same power as sport mode without the mod.
Yeah I think power vs weight is going to be key here.
Finding the right power to weight ratio could get expensive by trial and error. I wonder if there’s a mathematical formula to work out the optimum sizes?