I’d change from brushed to brushless, less hassle and depending on the size of your plane you might be able to use the same lipo batteries that you currently have.
Pictures would help in determining the best way forward with your build.
Thank you. I’m guessing it’s sort of a glider. I’ll rebuild as is and see if I like it. I can always change later. It’s just that it has nice folding props that fit nicely on its motor and the frame would need modifying for a brushless. Brushed Esc’s are only a tenner anyway. I did put a pic up in the past. I’ll try a 3s 3300 lipo as its spare.
The state of that tells me that it’s more than likely that it will have the dreaded black wire or negative wire corrosion which is very prevalent in old RC gear.
If I was to rebuild that glider I’d remove all that RC gear and dismantle it all to especially the RX.
At a guess I’d say you could fly that with a 900-1100 KV motor and a light weight 2200mA lipo.
I’d move the servos to the back and lipo to the front, the rear area behind the servos was for the much heavier NiCd batteries.
Cheers man. I have spare 920kv motors and 20a esc so that may be the way to go. The first thing I did was take out the rx. It has a crossfire nano now configured with pwm out. Obviously I will be installing fpv on it!
And I do have two places for the battery. I do have a 14v nicad, but it’s really heavy. I will have to experiment with placement.
If you’re going FPV then brushed will be a pain from the brushed motor sparking and snowflakes in your video even with the best suppression capacitors on the motor, then again brushed motors may have come a long way since I last used them.
If you went for a lipo brushless route it will be a much lighter aircraft but it will mean having the lipo up front to restore the CG.
I’d do a dry mock-up of everything you intend to use, have your brushless motor, ESC and lipo up front then just place the servos to the back with your nano RX, fit the wing and move the battery until you get the correct CG say 1/4 cord slight nose down.
A ball park point would be about 1/4 - 1/3 back from the leading edge of the wing, measure the wing root from the leading edge to the trailing edge then divide by 4 to get the 1/4 mark, mark it then divide by 3 for the 1/3 mark and mark the point.
Since you don’t have a manual, it’s a bit of rule of thumb, the wing cord type will determine the best CG point, if you look at the wing root the highest point of the profile is about where you want the CG, based on a none tapered wing which yours looks to be.