Here you go, and cheaper than what I thought I’d payed for them. Finance management has never been one of my strong points.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rowiz-Cooling-Brushless-Notebook-Printer/dp/B09KGZ3CCV
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Cheers mate. They needed for that VTX then you reckon? I’ve not had it pwoered up yet (personal issues got in way of drones, and winter… I’m not flying outside in winter for long, lol)
And is it a good VTX?
And ahaha yeah know what you mean. I just chucked a load more money at unmanned tech and then amazon. So the 5V version of these… OK will order. I assume can solder to any LED 5V output and GND on my rig. I nearly clicked 12V! No 12V out on my stack. 9V, VBAT, 5 and 3.3!
I got it from here, and it fits any 20x20mm module
iFlight Nazgul Evoque GPS antenna mount by ZiggyShrimp - Thingiverse
I always coat my bed with Windowlene before using PETG. It helps with both adhesion and part removal.
Interesting, what’s you bed coated with? mine is some sort of plastic.
I have a textured bed that I use for PETG and a smooth one that I use with everything else. They came with my prusa Mini.
I always use gluestick for all other prints.
PETG on this:
everything else on this:
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I’d say my bed that came with the printer is PEI too, all I wanted to do is print on it without having to spray anything on it, to just simply run a print. I eventual found the best software “nozzle off set” after levelling the bed.
The optimum temperature for this particular bed being 43C no high or lower for 215-230C nozzle temperature PETG, PLA.
I think it’d be different for another type printer as there’s no one shoe fits all in 3D printing, hence the reason I’ve gone all out to tune software and Hardware, so far I’m really quite happy to be able to drop a print on the bed and just let it get on with it without having to do add anything else.
I’ve got some Windowlene and will experiment, It’s always worth trying something new… 
Here is a 3Hr print I’ve just started, straight onto the PEI sheet, the final hour the bed temperature will be off as this sheet hold the part for quite a while.
I’ll see how it turns out as it’s got compound curvatures.
What printer you got Njoro. Going to try PETG later tonight if get time.
Qidi Tech i-Mate S
What printer have you got?
If you’re powering your camera from the flight controller you can use the 5Volt output of the vTx to power the fan.
When you mount the fan the side with the label on the fan faces down, otherwise the fan will bind on the heatsink of the VTx. You’ll also need to rummage in your bits box for some suitable screws as the fans are not supplied with any.
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It’s highly rated as it is heavily filtered against transients on the power bus and screened to prevent RF Interference from other components on the model.
Artiellery Genius. Just trying PETG for the first time. Having no issues with is not coming off… Having opposite first layer issues, lol. Default Bed
heh…
lol… guess who removed the power wires from the connector for the cam as it’s the other end of the quad… yes me… No harm running it off of the FC though is there?
Sometimes you can find the camera voltage supplied by the VTX is a bit cleaner than the voltage coming off the FC and therefore gives a better picture. It really very much depends on the vtx and the FC though. The Matek FC boards for wings, for example, are supposedly very good at providing stable and clean current from the various power pads. If you have some cheap no name FC from a £70 Eachine quad though, and a TBS/Rush vtx, then you may be better taking camera voltage from there 
I wouldn’t…
Motors, even the brushless ones used in fans, can cause some electrical noise
Maybe I’m being over cautious but I’d put the fan on its own BEC (the low current ones are really small these days)
Maybe there is something suitable if you have a 4in2 ESC ?
I’m planning to do this to my Nazgul. I have everything but the mounting bracket. I am still managing not to buy a 3D printer though. 
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