I’m not sure… there was talk of backwards compatibility, but that may have been v4 back to v3 and not v3 back to v2.
Ooo, I just remembered, there is something else to note. The SPI Rxes can’t support the higher speed and fancy modes that you can select in the ExpressLRS Lua script. Go back to say straight-forward “250Hz” or “150Hz” etc… Nothing fancy like “333Hz Full”, etc
It might be related to their age/use as well. 1s are known to not last as much as their bigger siblings. As soon as I take off, they are jumping from 4.3 to 3.9 almost immediately.
100%… I’ve only had 3 flights so far… I will keep trying them!
Using a good charger and putting them on storage should help making the most out them as well.
But regardless, I think they are overpriced. TheFPV and GNB that I’ve tried are much better and cheaper, so I won’t be buying the betafpv ones anytime soon. The only caveat with those is that I have to adapt them to bt2.0, but that’s relatively simple to do so I’m not bothered by it at all.
Yeah, I use a Whoopstor and keep putting my batteries to storage after flights. Though at the moment they’re charged all the time for off-the-cuff flights around the house.
These were the only 450mAH BT2.0 batteries I could find anywhere. At £20 (ish) for 4 they seemed reasonable value. Plus designed to fit the Meteor75 frame I’ve used on this build.
I won’t touch batteries with flying-leads any more. I’ve had too many unrecoverable breakages with them now and even with BT2.0 connectors soldered on they’re just not as good as the ones with the built in connectors.
Yeah, thats one of the issue… BT2.0, albeit a great connector, hasn’t had much traction with battery brands. In fact, I can find more GNB27 than BT2.0, and these are even better than BT2.0, although a bit heavier.
I only had one accident so far in which I managed to brake the battery lead from the battery whilst flying. But it was easy to open it up and solder a new wire to it.
When I bought TheFPV batteries, they came with the ph2 connectors, so I had to cut them off and solder the bt2.0 on them, on one of the packs, I messed up on one and had to open it up and solder a new wire to it. Was an easy job as well.
Now I’m just buying GNB27 batteries and plugin an adapter to bt20 on them, increases the weight just a bit, but doesn’t seem to affect the flight.
I ditched the meteor 75 frame for the cockroach one and that one I just use rubber band to hold the battery, so it doesn’t matter which one they are. But even if I was still on the meteor frame, I think I would just clip off the battery holder and use the rubber band to hold them so that you’re not limited to one type of battery.
You got lucky… The GNB 1S batteries I’ve had have resisted my attempts to resolder the wires back on like their lives depended on it… bah!
BT2.0 BetaFPV 300 and 450 1S lipos.
They sag way too much for my liking while flying acro. Like an almost complete inability to pull out of a power loop. The voltage on mine go from roughly 4.2v to 3.6v as soon as you take off and after a power loop i’ve seen dropouts as low as 2.8v. In angle they seem to sag less for whatever reason. Could be two bad batches I guess. After flying them for around 100 flights I’m probably going to rid myself of the BT2.0 connector and replace it with an XT30 or GNB27 (I have both). My suspicion is the C rating on them is inadequate for any sort of flying that isn’t easy cruising. My standard Lipos of any size that i possess are generally 60-120C and I have no crazy sag on any of them. But these BT2.0 are just hardcore saggy and I suspect the 20-30C rate on them might be some of the cause. What i would like to do is try the GNB27 380mAh 1S that the Sub250 range use, that are identical to the GNB 380mAh 1S Lipos, with a 90C rate. See what sort of sag I get on them. I don’t have any at present and I’m not sure I can be bothered shelling out on a set of GNB27’s when i could spend about the same to get 1S 530mAh XT30’s (for 30p less @ HobbyRC).
Of course it could also be my build that is the issue. But i’m thinking of abandoning 1S as a build platform and just sticking to 2S from now on. Maybe change the FC on the M75 to the 12A 2S AIO.
Alternatively.
If you have serial ELRS, ie, one of the new 2022 boards, just use whatever suits you.
Guessing you have this fixed already though, or have gone to Quicksilver.
Lol. maybe so… But since you don’t like the batteries with the lead on them, there is also a version of the GNB with gnb27 plug only, in case you ever want to consider them as an option…
Also, I noticed early on, that the charger that comes with the meteor75 is not very reliable. Its set to charge at a high amperage, which consequently reduces the life of these batteries considerably. Which is why I bought the vifly charger at the time (besides the 6 ports it comes with).
Of course it could also be my build that is the issue. But i’m thinking of abandoning 1S as a build platform and just sticking to 2S from now on. Maybe change the FC on the M75 to the 12A 2S AIO.
I’m thinking about something along these lines for both the meteor and the crux, but it means I would also have to buy new sets of motors for them and with those two costs together it might be better to buy a new quad altogether.
Yes, this may be it. Are you running 2S and 1S on the same quad and only seeing issues with the 1S?
It could be the motor KV or more likely the motor volume that is too small.
I doubt the amp rating of the FC is the problem as the motors determine what amps are drawn. The volume is I suspect the problem. You need more volume to get more power and punch.
It could even be the props I suppose…
I only use the vifly myself. I have noticed that it actually charges the batteries properly. The cheapo charger which I had with my original Eachine quads was very random with how it charges.
The Vifly Whoopstor is an essential purchase for all micro pilots!
Very true…
Apologies I wasn’t clear - my TX is a Literadio 3, and the max ELRS is v2.
And the minimum support for ELRS via SPI is V3.
Although the docs says that it supports the older ELRS version - it does not. Every version I tried will not connect to a V2 radio except the 4.21 version… but it does not support ELRS via SPI, rendering the RX useless.
Hence my 4am decision to can the Literadio and buy a new TX.
When I got the Literadio, it was primarily for practicing on the computer sims (which it has done well!), with the idea that I’d be able to use ELRS going forward… But with Betafpv not actually updating their controller firmware, it’s kinda useless as a controller for me now.
Oh well, best laid plans and all that!
Ugh, the BetaFPV Literadio 3… I see.
Well you’ve ordered a Radiomaster TX12 now, that should have up-to-date firmware. Which one have you gone for?
Personally all my TXes have ELRS modules which I can flash with their own firmware. The stock stuff from the actual ELRS devs. I’m thinking this is the easiest/best way to go.
Also running open/edgeTX has to be the right thing to do.
While we’re on batteries, I have these for my Nanohawk and I’m only getting about 90 seconds flight time out of them before I’m being asked to LAND NOW. Seems a little poor.
I was on the verge of starting to tinker with Quicksilver but as I currently have no issues with my quad I decided it was definitely a case of, “not broke so don’t fix it.” 
I went for this one… Radiomaster TX12 MK2 Transmitter (ELRS)
As the Boxers and Zorro ELRS TXs are out of stock, it was either that one or a TX16… which while excellent… that’s a future upgrade if I ever need it!
@Yith and @cst3x6 The main difference between my M75 and the stock M75 is the motors. I use the 1102 18000kv motors instead of (I believe) the 0802SE 18000kv motors. The upside is the 1102’s support both 1S and 2S. So throw on the 12A AIO and i can use either. i think experimenting with XT30 1S is probably going to be the way forward, so i can have a nice indoor/outdoor cruiser with light acro capabilities on 1S, or a full on acro ripper on 2S.
@cst3x6 For your Meteor upgrade, you could try going up to the 1002 18000kv motors if you want a bit more punch while sticking to 1S, or go to the 14000kv version if you want to mix 1-2S (would need a 12A FC down the line) or go up to the 1102’s (£30 from UnmannedTech). For the Crux, I would buy a C2 Flea from UnmannedTech for £85 and use the parts to upgrade your Crux to a 2-3S running 1202.5 motors. On that frame, it would be pretty powerful.
Honestly though mine flies ok, it just won’t pull out of of dives and loops without throttling up really early or not cutting throttle while looping, keeping the motors spinning at around 20-30% all the way through so you are already powering through it. The main issue for me is the flight time. In angle it gets about 3 mins, mid level acro maybe 2 mins. If i got 3 mins of acro, i’d be happy.
@fozzedout SPI ELRS is v2 / BF 4.3.1 unless you use the Dale Larson build in which case v3 is possible. I still run ELRS 2.5 on my Jumper T-Pro and have no issue connecting to any of my SPI based quads. Saying that the Literadio does have issues. nothing says you have to use the latest ELRS. You can flash pretty much any ELRS and use it, nothing is stopping you. If the Literadio uses ELRS v2.1, then BF 4.3.1 will work. You only need to match the major version.
lol, it’s close, but no cigar - like I said, the last update was just over a year ago, and it introduced ELRS v2.0.0. And that’s the last update.
No 2.1, no 3.0, just radio silence. Just like their TX.
