How much for the betafpv one and what does it include on the board?
£35, 12A AIO, SPI ELRS. I have a couple of these so far and not had any problems. Be aware that some people do have issues with them. So it could be that I am incredibly lucky. Also if you do decide to try one, before you plug in USB, do the boot button hack and flash it with 4.3.1 as it does use ICM-20689 and is technically susceptible to the gyro brick issue. Unless of course you get lucky and get one of the newer ones that uses BMI270. I have asked UnmannedTech a couple of times to change the product description to reflect what version us being sold, but they so far haven’t bothered. V2.1 is the old one, 2.2 the new one (AFAIK).
Saying that I have one on the M85, one on a partial Nanofly16 build and two more gathering dust in my parts box.
Outside of that, if you can get hold of one, the DarwinFPV 15A AIO is probably the one I would get. It’s a similar price, but you will have to order it from them directly as no one seems to have any over here.
If you add a vtx to the betafpv, the price comes to about 50 quid, so I guess that is better indeed… Will consider this option as well
For the Darwin one, you have to consider the vtx and rx, so might not be the most attractive on the price perspective, but it does 1-3s, which the others don’t…
Sorry, I linked the wrong Darwin FC. The one I was originally going to link had SPI ELRS on it, but they’ve jacked the price up on it to $50, at which point it’s a bit meh. Roughly £42. Pros are definitely the fact it does 1-3S and allows up to 15A. Cons, the fact you have to ship it from god knows where, probably China.
The vtx is about £11 for an ovx300, but if you search on ebay from time to time you can pick them up for less. I grabbed some random no name/random name 200mw vtx’s from a random drone shop on ebay a couple of months back, got them for about £6 each, so grabbed a couple. They all worked. Saying that though, i think the best vtx is actually the Fyujon, since you get an ELRS receiver with it, which you can break off and throw in your parts box. At £18ish for a vtx/rx combo, it’s probably the best value
Good to know. thx for sharing the info.
Have more options to think about when I decide to make the purchase.
Finally got fed up with the camera popping out of the Mobeetle6. I had a tube of T-7000 which is used to glue on things like phone screens and have put a dab around the camera to seal it to the frame without making it impossible to remove in the future.
About 15 batteries later, it’s holding up great, would highly recommend as a QoL improvement.
Did some upgrading on the sw side of things today…
Updated Edgetx on the Zorro to 2.8 (latest)
Updated Elrs on Zorro to latest of v3.2.0
Updated both the Crux3 and Meteor75 to latest BF 4.4
No issues encountered so far on TX or drones. Just did some quick hover tests and seems to be working as it should. Will do some further tests later on…
Trying out a new hi-viz outfit for crux3 (excellent 3dprinting by @Steviegeek ). Took it for a ride earlier and don’t think I noticed a difference from the original, they weigh about the same as well.
( In case someone is wondering, the green rubber band is being used as a battery pad whilst the blue one is holding the battery)
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So here’s an update. I got the TX12 on Monday… and oh my word was that a hassle to set up.
I’m actually shocked at the lack of instructions for the controller.
After much faffing (trying to get into ExpressLRS menu didn’t work - just a solid “Loading…” screen), flashing, corrupting (thanks controller for switching off mid flash), reflashing, and then finally learning that I had to go into the models and TURN ON the internal module for a model, I was finally able to get to the menu to bind the Mobula6.
And without a hitch, it bound and worked! Let the crashing begin!
Fortunately there are lots of videos online with step-by-step instructions of how to go about with the upgrades.
I would recommend watching a few to make sure you cover all the necessary steps when trying to do anything on it. These things have to many details to try and sort it out y trial and error, at least thats how I approach it to avoid to many headaches…
Just make sure your packet rates match. I tend to use 250Hz on mine, but you could use 500Hz if you don’t intend to fly out any further than a mile.
Also set your power to at least 50mw on the TX12 from the LUA script and if you want switch off Dynamic Power. I don’t use it on mine any more because it kept dropping power to 25mW and telemetry kept dropping. I just run 100mW permanently which should be good out to about 30 miles. 
Nice Cherry 2. I am after a couple of sets of those for my fleet. I’m getting fed up with the limitations of linear antennas. I thought your Crux was the 2S version?
Haven’t really put them to test yet, but the same reason you state is what I got it for…
Mine is the 1s elrs version, unfortunately…It flies nice as it is, but once you get used to it you start to wish for more juice. Might convert it to a 2s eventually, but I do worry that the frame might be a bit on the thin side for a 2s (even thought the original is 2s and uses the same frame), but no use worrying too much before I actually try it…
Finally finished my corkscrew gates for the big meet. The hoops are padded and strong and were only £2.50 each at the car boot.
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Cant wait to crash into that mate 
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If we put some bean bags, or similiar, on the corners of the frame it will keep it stable in the wind
Nice job Mate 
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Cracking job Karl 
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something’s wrong with my glasses, I can see a potential drone… 
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