Cheers mate, iv just soldered 1 in and powered up Iv got a red light on the nano not sure if that’s right or wrong??.
Am I right in taking the RX and TX wires out of my vista ??
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The Rx and Tx wires on the Vista are for communication with the Flight Controller for things such as On Screen Display and controller channels. They still need to be there. You would solder any receiver to the Flight Controller only. There should be 4 pads there 5v,GND,RX2,TX2.
The number isn’t important, this is the UART port that the receiver will use to “talk” to the FC, remember this as you will need it later. You need to use the same number on both solder points and remember to solder Receiver Rx pad to FC Tx pad then Receiver Tx pad to FC Rx.
You can however remove the “SBUS” wire if you no longer want to use controllers with the Vista.
Ok Ill leave them in place, does it matter if I leave the Sbus also ?? or does it need to come out ??..
Well I have a solid green light and the Tango2 tells me if the telemetry is lost or not, I would of thought at this point the switches would of worked but I have nothing, and I have set them up in the Tango2 ???.
You need to set the radio channels in BF now.
If you are sure the TX switches are mapped to channel numbers.
I believe it should be fine, but i’m aware that some ELRS receivers have issues with having it also connected. It’s more something to remember then a rule to remove when adding a receiver.
Switches and buttons work in BF when I connect to the quad my beeper button works but it wont arm ?? have I missed something ??
Look for an FC reason why it won’t arm, are you still connected to configurator etc…?
Don’t autonatically assume the reason is associated with what you have just done, it’s probably something totally seperate 
IMHO if you are not using SBUS, don’t connect it !
Yah iv took it out on Jason advice 
Boom found I was set to default in mapping tb so changed to spectrum and all good thanks to all above for your advice on setting up my 1st Crossfire, only 6 more to go 
Got 2 more being delivered this next week so might put them on the 5 and 4inch as need nano antennas for the other 3 + spent tooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo much this month …
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The mapping I’ve found that works for me is TAER 1234 I believe
Iv just installed my second CRF unit in a Nazgul, double checked everything ie port matches the uart on my FC. Iv bound it to my Tango2 which it shows up in but none of the switches work ie buzzer arm switch ??.
Stupid question do I have to assign the switches to each quad via the tango2 are do you only have to do that process once ???..
One more question and another daft one maybe, I have fitted the TBS Immortal-T V2 Antenna which is a little long hence are you able to trim them ???. If I dont the props will 
I don’t know if its the same on the Crossfire remotes but on EdgeTX / ELRS you need to go into your model and assign a channel for each switch you wish to use in the ‘Mixes’ tab. Might be something similar on Crossfire.
The Antenna are a specific length for a reason. They match the wavelength of the expected signal so cutting down the antenna will reduce its effectiveness quite a bit. I definitely wouldn’t suggest cutting them down.
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Yeah don’t touch the antenna. One reason prefer the modern ELRS is the smaller antennas and the quicker latency and price of course.
Yes you do. I use the same switches on each drone so that I have only had to set up once on the tango 2.
As @GunjaFPV said don’t trim the antenna. You can either re-position it ( i tend to mount mine on the underside of my builds where i can) or you can buy a mini Immortal T and swap them out.
If doing the latter I’d get some sticky stuff to ensure the antenna sticks to the rx
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Depends on what you want to put it on…
usually I use them on a foam wing and bury it in a scalpel blade induced slot
On a quad I’ve put them in a thin plastic tube for protection and then tied the tube to either the frame or up verticaly from a TPU mount.
HTH
Hmm I was going to ask if you could put them in some heat shrink
Yes, no problem with that 
