Where to buy decent solder kit

Evening. I’m going to build a new quad in a SpeedyBee Mario 5 DC frame and have been practicing my soldering on a practice board.

So far the results are shocking :sob:.

Every pad I’ve tinned is dull, not a shiny blob in sight. I’ve tried 3 different solder wires, two different 63/37 and one mystery solder wire. All go dull, not shiny. I’m using a cheap 60w amazon iron so I know my kit is bargain basement stuff.

I’ve used a flux pen on every pad, tried high and low temperatures.

Is it more likely that my iron is junk and the temperature control is BS, overhearing the solder then 3 different solder all refusing to shine?

I’ve even lifted some pads right off the board, so I don’t dare go near my speedybee stack with the iron yet.

Where is the goto place to buy decent solder and other supplies?

It might be worth having a browse through this thread if you haven’t already,

60/40 flux cored leaded solder and a temp between 340-380

Add some flux to the pad, a small amount of solder on the tip of the iron then apply the tip to the pad and the solder on the tip should begin to flow then add some more solder till the pad is completely flowed to the edges. :+1:t2:

That’s pretty much exactly what I’ve been doing. There are some horrors on this board but what’s common across all of them is the dullness.

Ignore the wire I’ve used, that’s some leftover from a previous guitar project.

They will go dull after a few seconds as the oxygen reacts with the lead.

That 1st wire joint looks fine :+1:t2: minus the couple of bridged pads and the not fully flowed pads.

The 2nd wire joint needs reflowing and will be fine also :+1:t2:

Bit of IPA to clean up the flux and they will be fine :+1:t2:

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i would suggest you purchase a few basic electronic kits to practice on soldering comes with practice and
yes you can get high quality soldering irons but master the basics first looking at the wire your trying to solder its not the best for beginer

i use in work everyday metcal rf soldering stations but when in the field basic weller mains or gas one

The wires need to be pre-tinned before you attempt the joint, this aids heat flow and is also another source of flux to the joint (provided you didn’t burn it off with leaving the heat on too long)


The surface colour of the solder when it cools is irrelevant, despite some claims to the contrary. Industrially produced PCBs are factory made by machines under ideal conditions, which makes them look pretty.

You are wise to get into practice before starting a major project !

There are (a great multitude of) “How to Solder” videos on Youtube.
At 60W, your iron is ok for some things, but around 15W with a smaller tip is better for small scale electronics. You can get temperature adjustable irons.

Lead-free solder has a higher melting temperature than traditional 60/40.
The iron should be hot enough to solder the joint quickly. If the temperature is too low, the iron will be on the joint for too long, overheating components. Transistors & microchips are rated to withstand soldering temperatures for a few seconds, so if you need so re-do a joint, let it cool first.

Ensure solder does not cross gaps between tracks. Component leads must be clean from grease or corrosion. Through hole components supplied in strips may need adhesive cleaning from ends of leads.

Keep practicing ! You will prevail ! Persistence precedes perfection !

Looks like the cheap amazon solder was the reason for the dullness. I got some Duratool 60/40 and it’s instantly shinier.

Now to keep practicing and get the temperature and timing right so I don’t have any burnt spots in the solder.


I now use a cheap (~£30) Chinese combined hot air and soldering station. This gives good temperature control, so although it’s capable of 70W flat out, you can slap on a needle bit and turn the temperature down to match. Add the convenience of shrink-wrapped joints. Lead-free solder is absolute crap, and my professional mates agree. A good 60/40 tin-lead is what you want and the flux fumes will kill you (maybe) before the lead does. Ventilate the place if you’re worried.

As everyone says, practice makes perfect.

In the end I’ve found my cheap amazon iron to be just about fine.

The game changer was buying decent branded 60/40 solder from somewhere other than Amazon.

Now I need to take the whole thing apart to conformal coat. Too much wet grass around here to risk flying without it.

As I shop quite regularly on HRC, I order this from there when I’m down to one roll left (always have two). Obviously being an FPV hobby, stock is always out, but when in I grab a roll. Same as you, I learn the hard way with cheap cacky solder from amazon/ebay!

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How did I miss that?? I ended up ordering from a non FPV model electronics store. Solder was about the same price but postage ended up doubling. I’ll add one of those rolls to my next HRC order ( I have batteries arriving today, so missed that boat).

Does their 5% returning customer discount code ever end? They send me the same code with every order and it’s always ‘expiring in 30 days’ :smiley: )

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Yeah says 30 days and well we happily share it here. Don’t ever buy from HRC without using one. Seems like you get 3 months for each one and they overlap.



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Exactly, share and help :wink:

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Ar you using lead free solder, it dorsn’t run as well as traditional solder. You can still buy lead solder but you have to sign a discaimer that it’s not to be used in educational establishments. I have a contact somewhere through repairing valve headphone amps and I was given the details of where to buy, I’ll dig it out for you.

Here’s the solder Warton Metals Future HF 63/37 Fast Flow 2% Flux Solder Wire 22SWG 0.711mm 500g | Rapid Online

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This is pricey but excellent, I used this make many years ago Weller T0053298399 WE 1010 Soldering Station Set 230V | eBay

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